Rotational Sounding Squeak. Ideas?

DrakeHale33

New member
First let me say that I have found that all the advice I've gotten on this forum has been right so far, and I hope you can help me pinpoint where this issue is coming from.

After about 15 mins of driving I get a high pitched sounding squeak from the front driver side. (99RS) It is rotational sounding and gets lower in pitch if you slow down. Thought it may be braking components but I just replaced pads and rotors and wirebrushed the brake dust sheild and the problem remains. So my question is would a wheel bearing squeak? Becuase the noise isn't anything like my rear wheel bearing I replaced which was LOUD! And this is very intermittent and usually only happens when turning right. I know the strut on that side needs replaceing and perhaps it is an issue there. The only other thing I can think of is the CV axle, I haven't tested it for play yet and will do this weekend. So you have and ideas or experiences with this?

Thanks.

 

Nigel Prodrive

Dirt surfer
look very carefully to see that the anti-rattle clips on brake pads weren't reinstalled too close to brake disc or reinstalled off-center. if too close to one side of rotor, they like to squeal like mad on turns. stuck slide pins on caliper may be another culprit.

 

DrakeHale33

New member
look very carefully to see that the anti-rattle clips on brake pads weren't reinstalled too close to brake disc or reinstalled off-center. if too close to one side of rotor, they like to squeal like mad on turns. stuck slide pins on caliper may be another culprit.
But wouldn't it do it constantly where it was cold or not? That's whats throwing me for a loop. But based on your reply it doesn't seem like it would be bearing/strut/axle?

 

Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
I'm gonna agree with Nigel on this one. Axles and all that other stuff don't squeak, it's something hitting the rotor.

Maybe it's so close that as the rotor warms up from braking it starts to touch, but not when cold. It's easy enough to take the wheel off, flip the caliper up and take a look.

 

Nigel Prodrive

Dirt surfer
Have found this exact scenario with rattle clips. Yes if too close they squeal all the time. If a lil too close they squeal on turns.

If squealing on right turns, its likely that clip too close to outer edge of disc on driver side, or inner edge on pass side.

 
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DrakeHale33

New member
Have found this exact scenario with rattle clips. Yes if too close they squeal all the time. If a lil too close they squeal on turns.

If squealing on right turns, its likely that clip too close to outer edge of disc on driver side, or inner edge on pass side.
Thank a lot for the replies guys. I think I'll pull the rotor off this weekend, since it, the pads, and the anti rattle clips are brand new, hopefully I can see if it is leaving a ring on the disc and then file it down or something.

 

Nigel Prodrive

Dirt surfer
Thank a lot for the replies guys. I think I'll pull the rotor off this weekend, since it, the pads, and the anti rattle clips are brand new, hopefully I can see if it is leaving a ring on the disc and then file it down or something.
no need to pull rotor to check clip clearance. pull wheel, undo bottom caliper guide-pin bolt, flip caliper up. inspect clearance between edges of rattle clips and rotor. clip edges should be equidistant from rotor on both sides. it's really pretty simple. eliminate this as an option before tearing further in the job.

one thing to check before pulling wheel and caliper....when wheel is jacked up, wiggle it with hands at 12 and 6 oclock...if there is noticeable play, wheel bearing is suspect in causing this squeaking -- play lets wheel wobble and rub on brake pads/rattle clips/dust shield/whatever.

free play when you wiggle wheel held at 3 and 9 oclock position = bad tie rod ends

 

DrakeHale33

New member
no need to pull rotor to check clip clearance. pull wheel, undo bottom caliper guide-pin bolt, flip caliper up. inspect clearance between edges of rattle clips and rotor. clip edges should be equidistant from rotor on both sides. it's really pretty simple. eliminate this as an option before tearing further in the job.

one thing to check before pulling wheel and caliper....when wheel is jacked up, wiggle it with hands at 12 and 6 oclock...if there is noticeable play, wheel bearing is suspect in causing this squeaking -- play lets wheel wobble and rub on brake pads/rattle clips/dust shield/whatever.

free play when you wiggle wheel held at 3 and 9 oclock position = bad tie rod ends
Is there a more absolute method for pinpointing if it is the wheel bearing. My back one was bad the noise was painfully obvious but there wasn't play in the wheel. I have a mech stethoscope, but other methods would be appreciated.

 

Nigel Prodrive

Dirt surfer
Is there a more absolute method for pinpointing if it is the wheel bearing. My back one was bad the noise was painfully obvious but there wasn't play in the wheel. I have a mech stethoscope, but other methods would be appreciated.
if bearing is bad, you'll feel play when wheel is unloaded. when weight of car is on wheel, you most likely won't feel play -- and if you do, yikes, wheel is about to fall off!
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Matt

Well-known member
If you get the car off the ground and spin the wheels one at a time and place your finger on the spring you'll feel it. They don't have to be loose to be bad.

 

DrakeHale33

New member
If you get the car off the ground and spin the wheels one at a time and place your finger on the spring you'll feel it. They don't have to be loose to be bad.
I imagine you're referring to the strut spring right? Could you detail this process, what am I feeling for? I know the strut is bad but what would it diagnose? Also pretty epic that you're still using my photoshop of your car.

Moar GC love here:

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Matt

Well-known member
What photoshop of your car are you referring to?? The pictures are of my car, taken by my friend prior to me painting it.

If you place a finger on the spring and rotate the wheel fast enough you'll feel the grinding of the bearing resonate through the spring.

 

DrakeHale33

New member
What photoshop of your car are you referring to?? The pictures are of my car, taken by my friend prior to me painting it.

If you place a finger on the spring and rotate the wheel fast enough you'll feel the grinding of the bearing resonate through the spring.
The photo in your signature is one that I photoshopped if I'm not mistaken. I poked around this weekend and did the spring test and didn't sense any abnormal vibration. I inspected the brakes and the clips dont' seem to be rubbing. Basically after a short drive the squeak will appear, it wont go away during braking, but it will go away if you turn the wheel sharper in that direction. If you drive on it for a while it seems to now become more of a creaking/ groaning, but definately different from the loud roar when my rear wheel bearings were bad. So there's that.

 

SUBARUGURU

Suba~dude
Did you ever figure out the noise?

My Forester is making a noise while accelerating and now decelerating. Kind of a knock, knock,knock. Goes away if you let off the gas. Wheel bearing also has no play and no roughness when spinning the wheel.

 
Did you ever figure out the noise?

My Forester is making a noise while accelerating and now decelerating. Kind of a knock, knock,knock. Goes away if you let off the gas. Wheel bearing also has no play and no roughness when spinning the wheel.
I'm going with 1 of three things. Top hat, axle or control arm bushings. Possible it could be a ball joint. I had a knock under acceleration in my impreza but it is gone after replacing all those.

 

SUBARUGURU

Suba~dude
Turned out to be the CV shaft. I had replaced it but was still making the noise. High quality aftermarket. Returning that shaft tomorrow and trying a different brand. I hope the NAPA ones are better. I had thought it might have been the wheel bearing and had it in hand ready to go. Glad it turned out to be the quicker fix. It usually never goes that way.

 

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