Having problems with new ebrake shoes/new rotors.

• May 20, 2014

• #2

Legwagon

BC-BF-*BJ*

I hate working on brakes..........I put  new E-brake hardware and shoes on the 94 wagon..... Now the new rotors won't
fit over the new shoes... WTF??!! The adjuster is all the way closed and e-brake is fully released as well. - BRAKE HATE COMMENCE.

What else could be going wrong here??? HELP!

 

Last edited by a moderator: May 20, 2014

• May 20, 2014

• #3

CoupedUpSubie

FWD-FTW

I am assuming you checked all the measurements on the rotor's and compared the new to the old. As it has been a while since I have seen the inside of rear disc brakes a picture will help.

Some things to check:

Corrosion build up

Shoes not flipped

Adjuster seated on shoes correctly

Hope this gives you some ideas. When it comes to brakes I do much much better seeing it and holding them in my hands.

 

• May 20, 2014

• #4

Legwagon

BC-BF-*BJ*

There is no corrosion build up since the shoes/hardware/rotors are new. I will check the shoes and the adjuster though. Thanks for the reply

 

• May 21, 2014

• #5

Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!

How much interference is there? Is this the one you're using 95 legacy brake shoes on?

Also make sure the shoes are seated on the top peg properly. It's easy to have one slip off while you're putting the springs on.

 

• May 21, 2014

• #6

Legwagon

BC-BF-*BJ*

The Shoes and Rotors are for a 94. The only thing that is for a 95 is the hardware kit... Could the adjuster be too long?

 

• May 21, 2014

• #7

Legwagon

BC-BF-*BJ*

So I messed around with it a little more this morning and still nothing.... Here are a couple pictures..

I put the old adjuster in thinking it may be a bit shorter... It didn't help.

 

Last edited by a moderator: May 21, 2014

• May 21, 2014

• #8

Nigel Prodrive

Dirt surfer

double-check the drum size on new rotors vs old ones.

make sure the shoes are square to axle, if they're even a little bit crooked it'll seem like drums won't fit over the shoes.

and make sure the fork thingie with the blue spring between the shoes is oriented right. I had one fork with a bent tine and it pushed shoe out of line, no fit. swapped it out and was fine.

just did this job on my RS, and yes there was a fair bit of Brake Hate involved.

 

• May 21, 2014

• #9

i-wagon

Well-known member

Tri loosening the cable under the console right at the ebrake lever

 

• May 21, 2014

• #10

69360

Active member

This happens sometimes with aftermarket rotors and shoes. The tolerances on made in china stuff are all over the place. I'd try a different brand. If that's not possible you will have to sand down the shoes or cut the drum so they fit.

 

• May 21, 2014

• #11

Nigel Prodrive

Dirt surfer

....or reuse the old shoes. If they weren't worn to bare metal that is.

 

• May 21, 2014

• #12

i-wagon

Well-known member

I reused all the ebrake parts when I did my brake job, just readjusted them to adjust for wear. Shoes looked give at 100k And I had a habit of stopping the car with the parking brake when pulling in to places

 

• May 21, 2014

• #13

Legwagon

BC-BF-*BJ*

I cant re use the brake shoes because one was TOTALLY decimated while taking off the old rotors.... I got the drivers side on tonight after taking the assembly apart and putting it back together... it didn't go on all that easy though.. and now I can't even turn the tire while on jack stands...So dis assembly commencing soon I fear.

 

• May 21, 2014

• #14

i-wagon

Well-known member

Did you buy decent name brand stuff? The centric premium rotors I bought were top notch and everything fit mint

 

• May 21, 2014

• #15

Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!

I definitely second what i-wagon said. Completely loosen the adjustment nut on the e-brake handle and make sure the cable slack gets pulled into the shoes at the hub. That way you're sure they're not being actuated.

 

• May 21, 2014

• #16

69360

Active member

In the pic it looks like the shoes are all the way back against the pin at the top and the adjuster at the bottom.

The centric/powerstop/stoptech stuff, it's all the same company, is good quality and real cheap, I like using it.

 

• May 21, 2014

• #17

CoupedUpSubie

FWD-FTW

The spring by the adjuster is flipped. The long hook should be pointed away from the caliper. Give it a shot, the spring may be forcing the adjuster to sit in the wrong spot. It looks like there may be a little side force on the spring. When ever I dive into a drum brake setup I have never worked on before I take before pictures and note exactly how springs were. I also disassemble one side at a time.

 

Last edited by a moderator: May 21, 2014

• May 22, 2014

• #18

Legwagon

BC-BF-*BJ*

I did but some of the cheaper stuff..I have completely loosened the cable from under the console and on the handbrake itself.. I took the whole assembly apart last night and re assembled... The rotor went on a lot better.. I set it threading the lug nuts  onto the lugs... Now I can't even move the tire. So it looks like I will have to dis assemble and start over again..

 

• May 22, 2014

• #19

Nigel Prodrive

Dirt surfer

trick question: do you have a manual showing what parts go where in relation to each other.  agree with above post, spring adjuster appears flipped in your earlier pics.

if that don't work lay a big ole hex on it.

if that don't work, try a lighter...under the fuel tank.

Or lit match down fuel filler neck that's leaking....

etc etc

 

• May 22, 2014

• #20

Legwagon

BC-BF-*BJ*

I do have a manual showing were/how things go. I thought I put everything on correctly.