Concerning Noise

[uglydave]

My 2002 2.5 TS that's an automatic has just started making a strange noise. Help me figure out what it is? When I release the gas pedal the car starts to vibrate a little bit and I can hear a thunk thunk thunk which sounds to intermingle with the speed of the tires going around. The noise stops when I press of the brakes. And then starts again when I release the brakes. So basically when I'm not doing anything. The noise seem an to get louder when I turn left, and sounds as if it is coming from the left wheel. I changed brake pads on the front about a month ago but the noise just started. I hope I posted this in the right thread and any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys

 

[SUBARUDE]

How's the cv shaft on that side you are lifted so it's going to wear a illite quicker

 

[uglydave]

I'm not sure, how do I check it?

I'm not sure, how do I check it? And once it starts making noise should I fix it asap or do I have a little while before it goes?

 

[SUBARUDE]

Check for torn boots and see if it makes more noise going around corners then straight but ya once they start making noise it a good idea to replace it as soon as possible

 

[SUBARUDE]

Also when you did the brakes did you do the rotors and does it fell smooth when you step on the brakes or is there any pulsation

 

[drvsdwz]

They shouldn't pulse if his foot isn't on the brake.

I agree with gabe. Probably bad cv shaft

 

[injulen]

My CV shaft made noise for a couple weeks, progressively getting worse. I took a low speed tight turn one day and bang the outer axle joint fell apart. All the little ball bearings went rolling across the driveway.

 

[uglydave]

It does make more noise going around corners. I did not do the rotors, just the pads. Also it feels smooth when I push on the brakes, no pulsation. Next question, is there anything else I should change at the same time as the cv shaft? And where is the best place to buy one?

 

[injulen]

I bought mine at advance auto because I didn't really have a choice that day. It seems to be pretty decent quality. I don't think there is anything else to replace while you're in there unless something else is getting worn out like your ball joint. The new axle should come with the new axle nut you need and a new pin to slide in, whatever that is called.

I'm pretty sure there are variances between models and years and my info is based on experience with a second generation legacy wagon, just fyi.

 

[uglydave]

Alright thank you all for the info. I plan on replacing it tomorrow and will let you know if it fixes it

 

[injulen]

Good luck and definitely shout out if you have more questions. I've only done it once on one car but many other members have more experience with it, I'm sure.

 

[CoupedUpSubie]

There are a number of people who will tell you to buy a Subaru or other brand new axle. Some have had problems with remanufactured axles. It all comes down to if you want to spend the money on a new one or not.

There isn't anything else to change except what comes with the cv shaft. There are two ways to go about it, separate the ball joint or mark and undo the lower strut bolts. I use a 5 foot pry bar and pop the ball joint out of the control arm. If you haven't done one before I suggest looking for a tutorial on rs25.com or nasioc.

 

[injulen]

I think the hardest part for me was getting the axle nut off. I had the proper sized socket and a large breaker bar but it just wouldn't budge. I ended up using a hammer and cold chisel to weaken the nut and loosen it.

 

[Matt]

Electric impact gun ftw. Spins right off

 

[uglydave]

Here is a picture of the old drivers side cv shaft next to the brandy new one.  12$ deposit for the core at Napa so I'll be bringing the oldies back.  What is the core made out of that they need a deposit?

I ended up buying two from Napa because they were not that expensive and rather have them done now then have to do the other one again in the future.  I used an air impact gun/wrench to get the axle nut off.  I did the drivers side first and it was a breeze.  Had to fumble around with the passenger side for far too long trying to align the pin holes up properly.  The replacement/install went smoothly.  Took the car for a test driver and it no longer makes the noise, there is also no more pulsing or thunk thunk thunking.  I'll be driving the car to Portland tonight so that will be a good test to see if this fixed the problem.  But as of now the car seems to ride smoother and there are no noises.  Thank you to everyone for your help and input!
 

 

[drvsdwz]

The core is so they can refinish it, and put new cv joints in it. Cheaper for that company to refurbish old cv axles instead of making them brandy new. If you bought a new axle, there probably wouldn't be a core charge.