Downpipe Instal Help..... Again

R

RJS5689

New member
So I posted up a little while back about someone who knows what they're doing helping me install my downpipe. It turns out the timing wasn't right then, so I held off on doing the downpipe. Now that the winter is almost gone, it's the right time to do it. Here's my situation: I don't really want to do the install myself. I don't have a lift, I know the intercooler needs to come off and I'm not feeling too handy with tools, I'd prefer someone who has done the install before tackle it for me. If anyone on here has the place to do it and is willing to take the time to do it for me, there is some cash involved for you. Don't think there's nothing in it for you
default_confused.gif
, haha. So anybody willing to help out, let me know!

The vehicle is a 2008 Legacy GT Spec.B with 55,000 miles on it. The vehicle has a Magnaflow catback and Cobb OTS Stage 1 mapping. I plan on having an open source tune made once the downpipe is on. Thanks for the help, guys. I really hope someone can help me work this out.

 
I can help but you need to find a place. Lobstah works on cars now. You can hit him up. He would charge you a small fee.

 
Make sure prior to scheduling this install that you have all the parts needed for install. It makes it go much smoother.

You will need a new turbo to DP gasket. I highly recommend a factory gasket over any crappy one that came with the DP. Figure out what you have for a midpipe. If the magnaflow uses a 2.5" donut gasket to mate to the downpipe, you may need to buy and run an adapter for your new 3" downpipe. Which means you will need a new donut gasket (dealer), and a 3" gasket (aftermarket supplier). I run this setup, and found that I had to run longer spring bolts to hold it all together. The factory ones just didn't have the length with the extra added adapter. I picked mine up off a exhaust fastener display at a NAPA. While your at the dealer picking up the new gaskets, buying a handful extra nuts and bolts isn't a bad idea either. Sometimes bolts break when your pulling apart your turbo, its just the way it goes. For instance the spring bolts, those will break 100% of the time, they just will. For the little money involved with getting new ones its worth having new ones ready to toss on. Having fresh nuts for one you might strip, or a new bolt for the one you break, keeps you from running to a store for a cheap part in the middle of the install.

Have a cut off wheel ready. Your factory heat shield will need to be cut to fit over the new downpipe. It can be added back on after the fact if you don't get it cut right off. But I would def be adding it back on.

Also I would have plans set in place for a tune ASAP after the install. I drove my car home that day after the install, and right to get tuned the next day. Keep it out of any boost whatsoever.

Having stuff lined up, and thinking ahead will make this go smoothly for you, the installers, and your car. This is a VERY easy job, and shouldn't take you very long, but you will enjoy the benefits afterwards.

 
Make sure prior to scheduling this install that you have all the parts needed for install. It makes it go much smoother.
You will need a new turbo to DP gasket. I highly recommend a factory gasket over any crappy one that came with the DP. Figure out what you have for a midpipe. If the magnaflow uses a 2.5" donut gasket to mate to the downpipe, you may need to buy and run an adapter for your new 3" downpipe. Which means you will need a new donut gasket (dealer), and a 3" gasket (aftermarket supplier). I run this setup, and found that I had to run longer spring bolts to hold it all together. The factory ones just didn't have the length with the extra added adapter. I picked mine up off a exhaust fastener display at a NAPA. While your at the dealer picking up the new gaskets, buying a handful extra nuts and bolts isn't a bad idea either. Sometimes bolts break when your pulling apart your turbo, its just the way it goes. For instance the spring bolts, those will break 100% of the time, they just will. For the little money involved with getting new ones its worth having new ones ready to toss on. Having fresh nuts for one you might strip, or a new bolt for the one you break, keeps you from running to a store for a cheap part in the middle of the install.

Have a cut off wheel ready. Your factory heat shield will need to be cut to fit over the new downpipe. It can be added back on after the fact if you don't get it cut right off. But I would def be adding it back on.

Also I would have plans set in place for a tune ASAP after the install. I drove my car home that day after the install, and right to get tuned the next day. Keep it out of any boost whatsoever.

Having stuff lined up, and thinking ahead will make this go smoothly for you, the installers, and your car. This is a VERY easy job, and shouldn't take you very long, but you will enjoy the benefits afterwards.
Click to expand...
Oh I'm all over making sure I have the correct parts. I don't want any unexpected hiccups along the way. I'm ordering all of my adapters and gaskets as new OEM parts from Fred Beans. My Magnaflow Catback tapers to a 2.5" so I also made sure to order the proper donut gasket and flanges for the application, along with a brand new OEM turbo to downpipe gasket. (I don't want any leaks, may as well do the job right.)

Thanks for reminding me about bolts! I forgot I snapped one of the spring bolts doing my catback, apparently this is pretty common. How much longer were the spring bolts that you picked up? I think I should grab some to be safe. What other size nuts/bolts will I need for the install besides the factory spring bolts on the down-mid pipe?

I have been in touch with my tuner in the past and am planning on sending him another message to actually set up having a tune ready for me. It is going to be a custom tune done over the web, so if for some reason it's not ready by the time I do the install, I would flash my car with Cobb OTS Stage 2 as a temporary solution until my custom one is made.

Thanks for the help/advice, I completely forgot about snapping those spring bolts and getting extras!

 
Spring bolt removal=snap the suckers off and replace. With the heat and moisture around these parts, it doesn't seem to matter how few miles you have on them. They just snap. The ones I picked up were maybe a inch and a half longer. The package said they were factory fitment for Chrysler's haha. But it works perfect!

Get the nuts and bolts at the dealer. The are cheap but some of the turbo bolts have a way of snapping off also. They will know the ones you need.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top