Whats Wrong With my suby? 4x4? A/C? Bearings? WTf?

[cperrine]

Last year on a trip to upstate NY I noticed this problem. I pulled into a parking space at a rest stop. When I made the tight turn it felt like it was really straining the engine or as if the brakes were locking up. I let it cool down checked the fluids, added a little oil and when I started back up it seemed to have lessened. I also turned off the A/C. I didn't notice this again until one of my trips between Portland and Woolwich. I took it to Bath Subaru and asked one of the guys what he thought. His first response was that it ran like a top for a 95 (helpful). He made a tight turn in the lot and it did the same thing but not so extreme. He mentioned that the 4x4 might be binding up (and the pricetag of a new one). Took it on 127 and again said it ran great. I checked the tire pressure...later rotated and balanced. Still happened every once in a while. Took it to Norm's. "Run's great!" (Thanks...)

Just put these new 17's and drove to work in Portland (45mins) pulled into the parking lot, tight turn, rough..

I tend to think it isn't the 4x4 b/c it doesn't happen all the time.

Do I need bearings??

I thought it might have something to do with the a/c. Does that sound stupid?? My dad recharged it and that seemed to make difference (but maybe it's the knid of difference you notice in your cars performance after a wash). It do notice that after about an hour trip with the a/c on it gets bad.

What can I do to provide more info?

Does anyone want to drive my car for 45 mins?? (preferably someone with a rex or sti)

 

[internalcombust]

sounds like the center diff is bad, I had this same problem with my 03 wagon. After I drove for a half hour or more it would "bind up" during tight turns. Not cheap, but maybe you can source a used one. I did and saved myself mucho dinero.

 

[Rightseat]

sounds like the center diff is bad, I had this same problem with my 03 wagon. After I drove for a half hour or more it would "bind up" during tight turns. Not cheap, but maybe you can source a used one. I did and saved myself mucho dinero.

sure does sound ctr diff related. Even if AC was screwed up, it wouldn't affect drivability the way you described the ploblem. Bearings seem unlikely caus they make a steady whumpwhumpwhump noise long before they are dangerously bad -- unless of course that's been an issue that you didn't mention

at least it's not a lot of $$$ to replace with a used trans. if the diff is indeed pooched, it's simplest just to replace the trans with a used one. Maybe $750 for the trans, plus 3-4 hours labor if you don't wrench it yourself. not a big job for seasoned tech with the right tools and facilities, but not something you'd tackle if you're not mechanical yourself AND know subies. and have tools. and jacks and jackstands and an impact gun and and and...

 

[gearsoup]

^^^^what he said. Swapping the tranny is a PITA, mainly because most jacks/jackstands aren't tall enough to let you drop the tranny and pull it out. Almost lost a couple fingers the first time I swapped one. (yes, I've done a few swaps)

 

[Evan]

you can use the center diff out of a tranny with bad gears if you want. that can help keep costs down. its may have been caused by your tires being different tread depths, so check them to see if they're off by more than 1/16th.

 

[inski]

Transfer or viscous clutch at the rear of the tranny. Its what makes the FWD car an AWD car. Common amoungst mid 90s Legos. Again, its difficult to diagnose issues on the internet, so consider it my guess.

 

[cperrine]

No whumping Nigel. As I was writing about the A/C I was doubting myself, but I thought it would be best to provide all the info I have. I just thought if it was screwed up it might strain the engine at low rpm.

Well, if I have to replace the tranny, why don't I just put in a 2.5????

All the tires are same depth (if not blame inski...right?...right?...) I'll go check the pressure though.

When if at all (may sell in a couple years) do I need to replace it? Any precautionary measures?

 

[inski]

I would say the 17s are scrubbing less than your 14s which is the reason you feel it more, because the 17s are nearly the same diameter as your 14s, but you have a wider footprint with a better compound.

Some people do notice a performance difference with the AC on, but it doesn't bind up the car. Usually it just a less power feeling, and the 2.0L WRXs it stole a lot of power and you can feel everytime the AC compressor kicked on.

 

[Shorty]

The center diff problem usually rears its ugly head after the fluid has been warmed up. Get it warm and go do some figure 8's in a parking lot. If it does it, the coupling usually lists for $499. + fluid and gasket. It ain't too bad to change though. You can do it in the car.

 

[cperrine]

Pressure was a little off in the tires. Filled up...no problems yet

Shorty - Should I consider the TC fluid warmed up once the engine is warmed up? I drove around the Back Bay Parking lot after the engine was warmed up, nada.

CP

 

[Shorty]

Pressure was a little off in the tires. Filled up...no problems yet

Shorty - Should I consider the TC fluid warmed up once the engine is warmed up? I drove around the Back Bay Parking lot after the engine was warmed up, nada.

CP

You gotta drive it to warm the fluid. The tranny fluid don't see much action unless you're in motion.

 

[cperrine]

Yeah, I didn't mean that I sat in my driveway until the engine was warm. I was just wondering how long it would take to warm it up and how that might relate to the oil temp while driving in the city. If they warm up at about the same rate, then I've still found nothing. Twice, I have driven around in a tight circle after driving for about ten or twenty minutes.

 

[Shorty]

Run it! If it's not doing it, you're probably all set. Goodtogo!

 

[bubba suby]

that is the center diff going bad and it willl start doing it all the time and if your going to sell the car it could be what brakes the deal from pos. buyers