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Waste Gate Duty Cycle is essentially how much air is being bled off by the EBCS instead of pushing on the waste gate. Higher waste gate duty cycles means less air gets to the actuator for the waste gate and it doesn't open as much. This means you get higher boost levels. According to your log...

Nice! Glad you were able to get it. It's a piece of cake to use, it's how I taught myself. Just playing with the software, you will learn so much about tuning. Compare stage I and Stage II maps and see what they changed, then you have a pretty good base for other things that should be changed...

How has this thing not sold yet?

Fueling is a tricky sunuvabitch. What's you CL to OL delay set at? Sometimes the transition doesn't happen until you get further on the throttle and causes a quick lean condition - this is what I  and many others believe causes the famed #4 ring land to go.  It goes very lean under load, knocks...

Maybe when it's done I'll do a DIY for it, she's not bad right now, but I wouldn't want to show it off.

As far as pro-tuning, I would hold off until you have a few more upgrades. GS might pull a few more HP out of it, but if you're already running a COBB Stage I tune, the benefit of a pro-tune might not be as great as if you were running a downpipe as well.  My very humble suggestion is to invest...

The boost fluctuation will probably go away as we get into hotter months, but it will be back as we roll towards winter. Colder temps make boost spike and creep way more apparent. You can try downloading the software from Cobb even if the AP is used. All you need is the serial number if I...

I take it back. Your TD Boost error swings negative just slightly at that RPM, adjusting the initial WGDC's slightly lower for the rpm range just before that would correct the issue and give you a cleaner pull. If you have access tuner race, drop the 3400 RPM WGDC by 1 percent under full load.  

Looks like more than dippage, it pulled timing by 2 degrees during that time too. Maybe it got a waft of hot air or something and the IAT compensation is the culprit.

well depending on how bad they are I may want them, mine are non existent. 

Understood... While I'm at it, are the side skirts any good? 

That's fine. I have a fuel pump... if you were to include it how much more would you want?

Man I wish I could swing this. If I hadn't bought my RS, maybe.  

I taught myself. Basically the first thing to learn is what gauges you need to be able to tune. You need at a minimum a wideband AFR gauge and accurate boost gauge. Once those are set up, go on the Romraider forums and there's a beginners guide to tuning. Read it, memorize and love it. If...

$40 for both? If so, SOLD. I can make some time this weekend to come and get it.

As far as I know he does. He's been out of town for a while doing military stuff. I really don't know much about the car, just getting the word out there for him.

**NOTE** I should mention, placing the water meth tank under the hood does cause it to get warmer. But is also reduces the lag time once the system kicks on. When the line ran the length of the car, it was a solid 1-2 seconds before the meth actually started spraying. Now the line is about 4ft...

Update:  The Fortune Auto 500's are installed and are a great ride quality over even the stock suspension. I do have some clunks and rattles I need to track down. I am pretty sure it's not the coil overs.  I have also installed the 20G XTR which is a corker of a turbo. I love it. It spools...

Yes, I have the s techs sitting in my garage, thinking of tossing them on my wifes WRX hatch. She gets all the hand me downs. 

If the tank hasn't gone for $40 yet I'll take that and the filler neck if it's not rusted out. Also has the pulley been taken yet? If not how much?