Electrical Gremlin!

[Runnah]

Ok for some reason my parking/driving lights are not working.

I have checked:

Every fuse.

Bulb

Connection

As much of the wire path as I can see.

The wierd part is the turn signals and brake lights work fine.

Second, maybe a relay is bad? Where would that relay be located?

Thridly maybe with all this rain something somewhere got wet. But a short would cuase a blown fuse right?

I appreciate any help.

 

[ReZPunK]

try sandpaper. that always works.

 

[mikebike357]

Do the older scoobs have the parking light switch on the steering column? I know my FOrester did funky things if that switch was on. About 2 weeks after I got the F'ster I was pulled over by a cop cuz my taillights weren't on. Dealer couldn't find anything and they worked fine the next day after I flicked every switch. What a pain.

 

[Runnah]

Do the older scoobs have the parking light switch on the steering column?

 

[Rightseat]

busted bulb, which was busted and rsuted from a leaking trunk.

Two things to note here--runnah, you should get the Haynes Legacy manual, which solves most of the wiring questions like fuse and relay locations. There are a number of relays and fuses scattered around the car, and the manual saves lots of detective work and blowing fuses while you experiment. The Legacy wiring is not exact in every detail but main circuits --brakes, interior, underhood, etc -- are good enough to save you lots of hunting arround to isolate gremlins.

second, the source of the leaky trunk is likely that the sealing around the taillights is not good. your RS had the stock tails replaced with clears, and I bet the installer didn't caulk around the body opening correctly. Have learned about this leakage fix recently after repairing crash damage on Tulip after Challenge sur Glace ice race. Both taillights were busted, the passenger side bent bad enough so the body opening was quite mangled. Hammered things as smooth as I could, then caulked the beejezus out of the lights with regular bathroom latex, and presto, even with all the recent rain, no leaks.

Try it, I bet you'll like what happens.

DG

 

[Runnah]

busted bulb, which was busted and rsuted from a leaking trunk.

Two things to note here--runnah, you should get the Haynes Legacy manual, which solves most of the wiring questions like fuse and relay locations. There are a number of relays and fuses scattered around the car, and the manual saves lots of detective work and blowing fuses while you experiment. The Legacy wiring is not exact in every detail but main circuits --brakes, interior, underhood, etc -- are good enough to save you lots of hunting arround to isolate gremlins.

second, the source of the leaky trunk is likely that the sealing around the taillights is not good. your RS had the stock tails replaced with clears, and I bet the installer didn't caulk around the body opening correctly. Have learned about this leakage fix recently after repairing crash damage on Tulip after Challenge sur Glace ice race. Both taillights were busted, the passenger side bent bad enough so the body opening was quite mangled. Hammered things as smooth as I could, then caulked the beejezus out of the lights with regular bathroom latex, and presto, even with all the recent rain, no leaks.

Try it, I bet you'll like what happens.

DG

Actually I traced it back to the wing full of water mystery. I think the water is getting in through some of the cracks in the fiberglass and then leaks into the trunk via the mounting holes.

Also the twist lock of the reverse has a missing tooth so its not sealing up properly. So I either need to replace it or seal it up.

While Im at it I'll check out the sealing around the tailights.

Thanks.

 

[Rightseat]

unbolt the wing, goop a little silicone sealer around the holes, bolt back on. that will solve the mysterious leaky wing holes issue. still not sure that's even a problem. tulip has 6 bolts holding the wing on, and have not had a moment's leakage from those.

DG

 

[ReZPunK]

Actually i used Mitchell OnDemand 5 online to get a wiring diagram.

then from the information he gve me on what lights work and dont work i was a able to isolate the exact circuit.

but living two hours north i wasnt able to look at thecar and see what may have caused the short to begin with.

this is also the right time to mention that Dielectric grease works wonders on light sockets. keeps moisture and junk out, and prevents lightbulb rust.

glad i could help Runnah....at 11:30 at night.....after installing the headlights we got from Mikey Rad.

Dave you know the ones...they are the dual projectors that used to be on the T2..we swapped them into the 95 L and they are sweet!! Nates got pics he can upload later..

 

[Runnah]

unbolt the wing, goop a little silicone sealer around the holes, bolt back on. that will solve the mysterious leaky wing holes issue. still not sure that's even a problem. tulip has 6 bolts holding the wing on, and have not had a moment's leakage from those.

DG

If I use anymore silicone she'll be a hollywood starlet! ;D

I scoped it out during lunch I couldn't see water comming from the wing holes so you were probably right about is poorly sealed light.

But yeah I read up about how capillary action causes water to get inside the wing through the cracks in the fiberglass. So I am going to patch those up next sunny day.

 

[Runnah]

this is also the right time to mention that Dielectric grease works wonders on light sockets. keeps moisture and junk out, and prevents lightbulb rust.

glad i could help Runnah....at 11:30 at night.....after installing the headlights we got from Mikey Rad.

Yeah I borrowed some from the maitenance tech here and did all of the sockets on the tail lights.

After I got done talking to you I went out at 12pm and tinkered around.

P.S. Beers are owed! ;D

 

[ReZPunK]

Pics of fore mentioned headlight install. there are more but with borrowed webspace i wont link them all