Flywheel
- Thread starter Tyler
- Start date
akinaspeedstar
New member
pros and cons to the LWF, hey theres another TLA, haha.
engine will gain revs faster and lose revs faster, and become more responsive to throttle inputs.
the down side is you need to be that much faster and precise in your shifts. especially down sifts. granted this is all relative to the weight of the flywheel. with a light weight, in the time it takes you to push the clutch and shift and let it back out the RPM's are going to fall more and faster then they would on a heaver flywheel. with down shifts you don't have the weight of the flywheel to cushion the revs as you down shift so you need to be more precise then you would on a normal one. granted your not going to a 10lb one or anything extream so it's not going to be hard to drive or anything, but it will be noticeable.
we but a 18lb one in my friends dsm, while a blast to drive on a twisty back road, in town traffic it became much harder to drive.
in my opinion ( for what it's worth to some people) i wouldn't bother with it. i would just have the stock one resurfaced. but if you want that throttle responce and faster reving engine, and don't mind spending the money or having it be a little harder to drive then a stock one go for it.
some light reading to back that up. not that anyone cares
http://www.ducati.net/faq.cfm?id=44 for sport bikes, but the concept is pretty much the same
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2460195 vw's but yeah.
http://www.my330i.com/mod19.php bmw see above
engine will gain revs faster and lose revs faster, and become more responsive to throttle inputs.
the down side is you need to be that much faster and precise in your shifts. especially down sifts. granted this is all relative to the weight of the flywheel. with a light weight, in the time it takes you to push the clutch and shift and let it back out the RPM's are going to fall more and faster then they would on a heaver flywheel. with down shifts you don't have the weight of the flywheel to cushion the revs as you down shift so you need to be more precise then you would on a normal one. granted your not going to a 10lb one or anything extream so it's not going to be hard to drive or anything, but it will be noticeable.
we but a 18lb one in my friends dsm, while a blast to drive on a twisty back road, in town traffic it became much harder to drive.
in my opinion ( for what it's worth to some people) i wouldn't bother with it. i would just have the stock one resurfaced. but if you want that throttle responce and faster reving engine, and don't mind spending the money or having it be a little harder to drive then a stock one go for it.
some light reading to back that up. not that anyone cares
http://www.ducati.net/faq.cfm?id=44 for sport bikes, but the concept is pretty much the same
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2460195 vw's but yeah.
http://www.my330i.com/mod19.php bmw see above
internalcombust
New member
I wouldn't recomend resurfacing old one if you decide to go with stock. Not the best idea.
EvilAsPie
New member
Why not? Wouldn't you want a new clutch to be mated to a flesh flywheel surface?
Subarus, especially turbo ones, take very well to heel-toe down shifting. If you did go with a LWF it wouldn't be that bad to learn to drive it, even with out learning heel-toe. But in traffic it sure is fun!
internalcombust
New member
You would definately want a new surface for teh new clutch, but that should come from a new flywheel. In my opinion resurfacing an old flywheel on some cars just isn't a good long term solution. If money is supertight you can get by with it, if the there is enough material to remove.
OEM Flywheel Thickness - This puts the physical location of clutch, in relation to release bearing, back to factory specifications. Resurfaced flywheels move the clutch farther away from the release system and can cause a no-release or poor release condition. Using a new flywheel usually cures release problems associated with hydraulic release systems where the flywheel thickness has been reduced too much due to resurfacing. Also, excessive flywheel resurfacing can weaken the flywheel.
Proper Run-Out - Improper run-out can be caused by misaligned resurfacing methods. If the crankshaft flange is not referenced properly during resurfacing, the friction surface will not be perpendicular to the crankshaft flange. This causes a two-fold problem. It can cause chatter (from misalignment) and a possible unbalance vibration.
New Flywheel = New Starter Ring Gear - This gives the starter drive/bendix a brand new mating surface to mesh with when cranking the vehicle.
these are just a few reasons.
OEM Flywheel Thickness - This puts the physical location of clutch, in relation to release bearing, back to factory specifications. Resurfaced flywheels move the clutch farther away from the release system and can cause a no-release or poor release condition. Using a new flywheel usually cures release problems associated with hydraulic release systems where the flywheel thickness has been reduced too much due to resurfacing. Also, excessive flywheel resurfacing can weaken the flywheel.
Proper Run-Out - Improper run-out can be caused by misaligned resurfacing methods. If the crankshaft flange is not referenced properly during resurfacing, the friction surface will not be perpendicular to the crankshaft flange. This causes a two-fold problem. It can cause chatter (from misalignment) and a possible unbalance vibration.
New Flywheel = New Starter Ring Gear - This gives the starter drive/bendix a brand new mating surface to mesh with when cranking the vehicle.
these are just a few reasons.
internalcombust
New member
With the cable setup there is more room for adjustment, but pedal travel may be decreased.
