roadtrip1098
New member
This applies only to vehicles that have a camber bolt. Most WRX's Legacy GT's ect have them.
This is a good way to get your camber set pretty close after you've done some DIY suspension stuff. Sorry if it's a repost. Also I'll try to add more pics soon.
Things you'll need:
1. At least 1 Jack Stand
2. Jack
3. A couple 19mm Wrenches / sockets
4. An angle finder like the one pictured below:
You can find them at most hardware stores for around $8
Things that'll help a lot:
1. Impact Wrench
2. Second jack stand
3. Sharpie
Step 1. Jack up car on one side, place jackstand under car at the pinch weld.
Step 2. Jack up other side. If you have a second jackstand you can place it under the pinch weld the same number of clicks up as the other side.
Step 3. With the hood open place the angle finder on either the radiator support, strut brace (if you have one), or any other area that should be level.
Step 4. Use your jack and jack stands to get the car level. (If you're on a level surface and have 2 jack stands it's pretty easy.)
Step 5. Remove wheels
Step 6. Mark the position of the top bolt using sharpie (should be the camber bolt). This is just in case you want to go back to where it was.
Step 7. Take an initial reading using your angle finder against your brake rotors. (You can use the any part of the hub assembly if you have f'd up rotors as long as you can consistently get the same positioning.) Write down your initial values, they should be the same if not very close as long as the car was level.
Step 8. Loosen the lower nut and bolt on the strut assembly. No need to remove it.
Step 9. Loosen the nut (not the bolt) on the top.
Step 10. With the angle finder in place, slowly rotate the top bolt until you come to a reading that is about 1 degree higher than you want your camber set to. (This accounts for the top of the tire tipping in when you put weight back on it.)
Step 11. Do the exact same thing on the other side.
Step 12. Check, double check, and triple check your adjustments.
Step 13. Tighten everything back up being careful not to rotate the top bolt once you have it set how you want it.
Step 14. Put your wheels back on.
Step 15. Get your car off the jack stands.
Step 16. Test Drive.
Things to pay attention to on the test drive:
-Pull during straight line acceleration and braking
-Cruising straight on a flat road (not crowned or rutted - if you can find one)
-Steering wheel position when cruising straight
-Steering wheel feedback when turning left vs. right
-Odd tire noises (can be common if you have switched to stiffer bushings and springs).
Notes:
Be sure to check everything after a few miles and the new parts have settled in.
Don't forget to re-torque your lug nuts after a while, they will loosen up.
Depending on the age and wear of your tires, you may want to have an actual alignment done at some point, but this will get you close.
As a general rule the more tipped in the top of the tire is, the better it will corner. You can lose some high speed stability, and get increased tire wear if you tip it in too much.
Disclaimer:
This post is not meant to be a substitute for having an actual alignment performed using high tech overpriced equipment. I have personally performed this type of alignment on 3 different occasions and upon taking for a "professional" alignment was always less than 1/10 of one degree off. Individual results may vary. I will not be held responsible for you breaking yourself or your car. It's on you to not be dumb.
This is a good way to get your camber set pretty close after you've done some DIY suspension stuff. Sorry if it's a repost. Also I'll try to add more pics soon.
Things you'll need:
1. At least 1 Jack Stand
2. Jack
3. A couple 19mm Wrenches / sockets
4. An angle finder like the one pictured below:
You can find them at most hardware stores for around $8
Things that'll help a lot:
1. Impact Wrench
2. Second jack stand
3. Sharpie
Step 1. Jack up car on one side, place jackstand under car at the pinch weld.
Step 2. Jack up other side. If you have a second jackstand you can place it under the pinch weld the same number of clicks up as the other side.
Step 3. With the hood open place the angle finder on either the radiator support, strut brace (if you have one), or any other area that should be level.
Step 4. Use your jack and jack stands to get the car level. (If you're on a level surface and have 2 jack stands it's pretty easy.)
Step 5. Remove wheels
Step 6. Mark the position of the top bolt using sharpie (should be the camber bolt). This is just in case you want to go back to where it was.
Step 7. Take an initial reading using your angle finder against your brake rotors. (You can use the any part of the hub assembly if you have f'd up rotors as long as you can consistently get the same positioning.) Write down your initial values, they should be the same if not very close as long as the car was level.
Step 8. Loosen the lower nut and bolt on the strut assembly. No need to remove it.
Step 9. Loosen the nut (not the bolt) on the top.
Step 10. With the angle finder in place, slowly rotate the top bolt until you come to a reading that is about 1 degree higher than you want your camber set to. (This accounts for the top of the tire tipping in when you put weight back on it.)
Step 11. Do the exact same thing on the other side.
Step 12. Check, double check, and triple check your adjustments.
Step 13. Tighten everything back up being careful not to rotate the top bolt once you have it set how you want it.
Step 14. Put your wheels back on.
Step 15. Get your car off the jack stands.
Step 16. Test Drive.
Things to pay attention to on the test drive:
-Pull during straight line acceleration and braking
-Cruising straight on a flat road (not crowned or rutted - if you can find one)
-Steering wheel position when cruising straight
-Steering wheel feedback when turning left vs. right
-Odd tire noises (can be common if you have switched to stiffer bushings and springs).
Notes:
Be sure to check everything after a few miles and the new parts have settled in.
Don't forget to re-torque your lug nuts after a while, they will loosen up.
Depending on the age and wear of your tires, you may want to have an actual alignment done at some point, but this will get you close.
As a general rule the more tipped in the top of the tire is, the better it will corner. You can lose some high speed stability, and get increased tire wear if you tip it in too much.
Disclaimer:
This post is not meant to be a substitute for having an actual alignment performed using high tech overpriced equipment. I have personally performed this type of alignment on 3 different occasions and upon taking for a "professional" alignment was always less than 1/10 of one degree off. Individual results may vary. I will not be held responsible for you breaking yourself or your car. It's on you to not be dumb.