Stein
Stein
Yep, I'm looking at the $5.50 PCV Valve at Napa, as well as a $22 fuel filter.
Nate's OBS: Out Front
- Thread starter Stein
- Start date
Stein
Stein
PCV/Filter/plugs+wires all installed. Thanks Dan for working with/for me in the cold
.
Also took this week to make some mudflaps:
Also took this week to make some mudflaps:
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Ray
The Northernah'
well done!
Stein
Stein
Thanks Ray!
Subydactyle
New member
Very nice!
Stein
Stein
^ Thanks Andy.
Just want to throw this out there. With Garrett linking to that $50 Paint Job, it got me thinking. The only really bad spots are my hood and front bumper, and only the tiniest rust-circles on the edge of the door (from the PO opening the door into other people's cars maybe?).
Would it be tacky if I painted the hood the same dark silver as my bottom color? I'd have to custom mix a gray.
Just want to throw this out there. With Garrett linking to that $50 Paint Job, it got me thinking. The only really bad spots are my hood and front bumper, and only the tiniest rust-circles on the edge of the door (from the PO opening the door into other people's cars maybe?).
Would it be tacky if I painted the hood the same dark silver as my bottom color? I'd have to custom mix a gray.
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GClark
New member
The thing about this paint job is that it's not going to be factory looking. It's a ten foot rule paint job(looks good from 10ft away). If your worried about swirls now, you're probably going to go crazy over this. If I had the money, I would get it professionally done, but I don't, and I don't want to anyways, it's a $1000 car after all. You can do what you want, but if your car isn't dented to hell, then this probably isn't the paint job for you.
2point5RS_Dan
HATER DAN
Nate, just go get a touchup paint set from Evergreen and call it a day. If you take your time it'll turn out good enough. I have one for the RS to put over paint chips to keep the rust away.
krazykarpenter
New member
Listen to Dan, trying to paint something as large as your hood and have it come out right without tiger strips and/or dark/lights spots and have it match the factory paint is going to be nearly impossible. Just touch up the chips to prevent rust and call it good.
Stein
Stein
New rear swaybar in! I spent 45+ minutes trying to get the last bolt in. It was the pass. side mount bolt, and I just couldn't get the ratchet in the right position to let the bolt go in straight behind this black plastic box thing. Not to mention the sway bar got heavy pretty fast. I got it in the end by using the spare tire jack to hold up the sway bar and threading the bolt by hand. I should have thought of that sooner... It didn't help that I didn't notice the bolt was going in crooked until the end, and I got road-salt in my eyes at least three times.
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Chris
YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
Nice! I've used the spare tire jack many times for installing things. It's great for doing doors alone!
PS. wear safety glasses when working under your car, no crap in your eyes that way
PS. wear safety glasses when working under your car, no crap in your eyes that way
Stein
Stein
Just finished repairing my new(used) amplifier! For those who don't remember, I bought the thing, opened it up, and found a capacitor dangling from one lead
First, I cut a hole in the back of the amplifier's 3/8-1/2"-thick aluminum body to access the rear of the circuit board. Then I de-soldered the remaining lead because it looked weak. Next I soldered single-wire copper extensions on to the capacitor's two leads and tucked them through the holes in the PCB so that they stuck out a good bit on the back side. I held the soldering iron against the copper wire but away from the PCB, surrounding the wire in a bubble of solder to conduct heat better, and then I stuck the solder against the wire right where it stuck out of the circuit board to secure it.
Lastly, I snipped the excess wire.
It was a lot easier than I expected, once I finished cutting the stupidly thick metal. Burned out the brushes on my Dremel 400 and got a replacement B&D rotary tool which I feel is much stronger, not to mention it's compatible with all of my dremel accessories.
First, I cut a hole in the back of the amplifier's 3/8-1/2"-thick aluminum body to access the rear of the circuit board. Then I de-soldered the remaining lead because it looked weak. Next I soldered single-wire copper extensions on to the capacitor's two leads and tucked them through the holes in the PCB so that they stuck out a good bit on the back side. I held the soldering iron against the copper wire but away from the PCB, surrounding the wire in a bubble of solder to conduct heat better, and then I stuck the solder against the wire right where it stuck out of the circuit board to secure it.
Lastly, I snipped the excess wire.
It was a lot easier than I expected, once I finished cutting the stupidly thick metal. Burned out the brushes on my Dremel 400 and got a replacement B&D rotary tool which I feel is much stronger, not to mention it's compatible with all of my dremel accessories.
Stein
Stein
Just wired up the sub+amp to a 15 year old power supply... It works! I wasn't willing to turn the volume up very high (it was literally minimum-ed out with a line-in source), as I was just using a 10-amp 12v supply and small wire, but it makes the right notes!
Now I just have to figure out how to mount the thing in my car, also running wires. Where am I supposed to run high-current wires?
Now I just have to figure out how to mount the thing in my car, also running wires. Where am I supposed to run high-current wires?
IBratmanI
Subaru Ambassador- AdidaSubarus
Run them through an existing grommet in the firewall, and then under the carpet all the way to the back. I'm sure you know, but use a good fuse as close to the battery as possible
Stein
Stein
Yup, getting an appropriate fuse. My intuition still doesn't feel right about running these cables under the carpet, but I can't think of anywhere else to put them.
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i-wagon
Well-known member
I've had a power wire run under my carpet for 4 years. Next to my fuel line. I haven't died a firey death yet
Chris
YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
15 year old power supply? It's a mere baby... One of my lab supplies is pushing 40, and the other has gotta be from the late 80's...
Stein
Stein
A power supply from 1970? Whaaaat?!
I was barely comfortable using this one for anything...