need troubleshooting help with my subs

[Ryan99OBS]

Is anyone here good with subs? I like to think i am right up until i cant figure something out.

So I just got my car back so I wanted my subs back. I got it all wired with a green amp light so I hooked up the rca and speak wire just to one sub ( because it's a mono amp ) and when I turn my radio on the sub is crackling and popping even with the volume at 0.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[i-wagon]

Did you run the rca cable next to the power cable? They can cause interference

 

[Ryan99OBS]

Did you run the rca cable next to the power cable? They can cause interference

Im changing my ground now and ill move my rca too.

 

[Ryan99OBS]

Wire brushed my ground and moved rca to other side of the car and nothing changed. I really think i just need a new spot to ground

 

[Jamey]

Yah make sure you have a good ground and run RCA away from power wires , is amp going into protect mode ?

Where are you located ?

 

[Ryan99OBS]

Yah make sure you have a good ground and run RCA away from power wires , is amp going into protect mode ?

Where are you located ?

Im in rumford. And no the amp light stays green the whole time. There is almost no where to ground something in my hatch.

 

[IBratmanI]

Im in rumford. And no the amp light stays green the whole time. There is almost no where to ground something in my hatch.

Hatch latch

 

[cwiggin]

Everything connected to the back of the head unit right or possibly loose??

 

[Ryan99OBS]

Hatch latch

This is where i have had it grounded ever sense i got the car.

Never did like it there though

(If the picture actually attach)

 

[JoshP]

Green light should mean good ground.  Going through this with mine also.

 

[Ryan99OBS]

Green light should mean good ground. Going through this with mine also.

I am using a dinosaur of an amp also because my 800watt kenwood fryed. Probably from a bad ground haha.

 

[Jamey]

I had a issue like this long time ago found that the RCA was cut and rubing on metal I'm in Hollis not sure how far that is from you I'd gladly help you out if I can

 

[i-wagon]

The cables are funny. I always had that noise in my old cars, buy I had the rca next to the power. I actually read the directions installing in this car

 

[Jamey]

A hum is usually RCA near a power source or bad ground cheap RCA can give shity sound as well

 

[smelt240]

To me, this sounds like dirty RCA connections, that's where I would start. Also, swap in a friends sub, if available, or hook to your other one. Same goes for the amp.  The best (easiest) way to diagnose these is the same as lots of other 12V problems. Swap in a known good part for each questionable one til its solved.  Your ground looks fine, and unless you're running huge power, will be more than enough.

 If that doesn't work, check all of your head unit connections. these can be screwy sometimes. Also hook your remote turn on to a constant 12V source (long speaker wire to the hot side of battery in a pinch) just to isolate that. Your green light may stay illuminated (caps in the amp do this) even though your losing remote power to the amp. Lastly, some older amps have pushbutton controls for bass boost, and these and the level controls can get dirty, they will give you lots of noise.  Lastly lastly, low voltage at the amp will cause a sub to "flutter" and make a racket. Get a multimeter and check for full voltage everywhere. get down around 11.2 and problems start.  If none of this helps, drink a beer, unplug the subs, and listen to talk radio. You wont need subs for that.

PM me if none of that helps. Ive been doing installations since the days of MTX terminators being the best thing you could get on this coast....that makes me old.

 

[Jamey]

Old school mtx was the best

 

[Ryan99OBS]

To me, this sounds like dirty RCA connections, that's where I would start. Also, swap in a friends sub, if available, or hook to your other one. Same goes for the amp. The best (easiest) way to diagnose these is the same as lots of other 12V problems. Swap in a known good part for each questionable one til its solved. Your ground looks fine, and unless you're running huge power, will be more than enough.

If that doesn't work, check all of your head unit connections. these can be screwy sometimes. Also hook your remote turn on to a constant 12V source (long speaker wire to the hot side of battery in a pinch) just to isolate that. Your green light may stay illuminated (caps in the amp do this) even though your losing remote power to the amp. Lastly, some older amps have pushbutton controls for bass boost, and these and the level controls can get dirty, they will give you lots of noise. Lastly lastly, low voltage at the amp will cause a sub to "flutter" and make a racket. Get a multimeter and check for full voltage everywhere. get down around 11.2 and problems start. If none of this helps, drink a beer, unplug the subs, and listen to talk radio. You wont need subs for that.

PM me if none of that helps. Ive been doing installations since the days of MTX terminators being the best thing you could get on this coast....that makes me old.

I have been busy the past few days so haven't done much more but today i did take the plastic off surrounding my hatch latch and found 2 bolts there that looked good for a ground. Ill wire it all Back up tomorrow and see what happens. Im going on the drive sunday if you (or anyone else posting here will be there) so if i dont get it fixed ill let who ever check it out. These are my 4th subs ive had and i have wired a bunch for my friends so i know a decent amount of what im doing haha.

1st i had 2 12" visoniks on like 400watts then i got 2 12" audiobahns on 1000watts. Then i got a single 15" p1 rockford fosgate. And now i have he 2 12" kenwoods.

 

[Ryan99OBS]

To me, this sounds like dirty RCA connections, that's where I would start. Also, swap in a friends sub, if available, or hook to your other one. Same goes for the amp. The best (easiest) way to diagnose these is the same as lots of other 12V problems. Swap in a known good part for each questionable one til its solved. Your ground looks fine, and unless you're running huge power, will be more than enough.

If that doesn't work, check all of your head unit connections. these can be screwy sometimes. Also hook your remote turn on to a constant 12V source (long speaker wire to the hot side of battery in a pinch) just to isolate that. Your green light may stay illuminated (caps in the amp do this) even though your losing remote power to the amp. Lastly, some older amps have pushbutton controls for bass boost, and these and the level controls can get dirty, they will give you lots of noise. Lastly lastly, low voltage at the amp will cause a sub to "flutter" and make a racket. Get a multimeter and check for full voltage everywhere. get down around 11.2 and problems start. If none of this helps, drink a beer, unplug the subs, and listen to talk radio. You wont need subs for that.

PM me if none of that helps. Ive been doing installations since the days of MTX terminators being the best thing you could get on this coast....that makes me old.

Hey man do u have a cell i could send pics to so you can tell me if everything looks right?

I tried to pm you but it wouldnt let me

 

[smelt240]

yeah, I cant send em back, but can receive and check em out.   7one3 6three74   And back then I went from 2 MTX 12s to 8 Orion XTR 12s then on to a full on Soundstream Reference sound quality system with 2 SS12Rs, 2 SPL 15s on a seperate amp for big bass, and 2 sets of 6 3/4" Reference components.2 Reference 500s for main power, and a big ol 700 feeding the SPLs. 2 SS crossovers, 3 caps.....  Everyone in town knew when I was coming. 140db of crystal clear! I still have some pics of my Nova with a big Soundstream banner on the glass somewhere... Ive been collecting a LOT of that old school stuff.  If this lowrider gets here today, the fun starts over....