overheating damage?

[Vecken]

When I installed a new clutch and hooked everything back together I failed to bleed the radiator properly and during the test drive I wound up overheating the engine above the high mark. immediately put more coolant in and flushed it through but what I am worried about is if this was overheated long enough to do serious damage to the seals and bearings

?I just did the rear oil cover plate before this happened and the silicone had not cured yet. This car has 240k miles and purrs like a kitten but I want to make sure it stays that way.

What is the overheating limit of these engines? I know bad head gaskets can kill them if run too long. Thanks

 

[CoupedUpSubie]

Possible that the engine is just fine. A friend of mine had his timing belt done and the shop failed to properly burp the coolant system. Same thing happened and his has held up so far.

 

[Nigel Prodrive]

how far did car get driven while overheated. if a short time (few mins or less) no sweat. if it got driven a longer time, then worries set in. if you didn't drive till it blew steam and basically seized up and stopped, you r probly ok.

practically speaking, you are either ok or not. might as well drive it (eagle eye on temp guage) and if it's OK, it's ok. if not, it will start to knock and make nasty noises well before it pooches you @ side of the road on a dark night (he said hopefully)

 

[flat4awd]

This might be a bit off topic, but still applicable to your situation nonetheless:

Story:

This reminds me of the time when I warped the head in my old Audi Quattro 5k. It was winter, car started overheating, I didn't have a cell signal, and I kept driving it in an attempt to get back to my house. Eventually, my time ran out, some part exploded with white smoke billowing out, spraying anti freeze everywhere. It was a huge mess, so being the resourceful human that I am, I found a stream and used my water bottle to fill up the reservoir tank. I also used electrical tape to try to Mcgyver the hose that gave up the ghost. Being the ignorant child that I was, I kept driving it, with the heat on to keep the temps down. I got it back to my house, but by this point the smoke coming out of my tailpipe was a nice rich white color, evidence of bad things. When I tried to start the car the following morning, absolutely nothing.

Point:

What I learned from this situation is this: If you notice something going wrong with a car park it and shut it off immediately. I think you did the right thing in this case, and I don't think your car was run long enough to ruin the head gaskets. I don't know anywhere near everything about these cars, but I do know for sure that bubbles in coolant will cause them to overheat, and destroy head gaskets. I would bleed everything again, or have someone else do it if you don't feel confident in it. 240k is a lot of miles even for a Subaru, parts are going to fail.

 

[Vecken]

It's a dohc, and the headgaskets, water pump, and most recently the rear seals have been done. I've been driving it for a week now after bleeding and the needle is rock solid ust below the mid point, even when pushing it hard. Am I in the clear?

I got this car for 400 because the clutch was worn out and the timing pulley was grinding on the bolt (no ball bearings to be found!) And it drove home 20 miles on 3 cylinders. It now does 4 wheel burnouts and starts cold better than any car I've ever owned, Ive never been amazed by a cars will to drive.

Should I run it till it dies or sell it while I'm ahead?

 

[i-wagon]

Get it hot,.check the coolant expansion tank for bubbles, report back

Good thing about posting this early is I have time to edit my mistakes before getting quoted... Darn phone

 

[flat4awd]

Should I run it till it dies

That is my mentality.

 

[Nigel Prodrive]

you've done the work, now enjoy the benefits of that work. if it blows up 100 miles from now or 1000 miles or 10,000 miles....you won't know till you get there!

 

[Vecken]

If I'm keeping it then these balljoints are going to have to be done, does anyone have a tutorial for getting rusted solid balljoints out? Or know anyone that will do it cheap?

 

[Maxxguy25RS]

Lots and lots of heat. Believe me, you do not want to break the pinch bolt that holds the ball joint in the control arm. I've done it too many times and I had to have the job taken over by my boss. Not fun when your supposed to be the mechanic who can do this kind of stuff. But, heat heat and more heat. And a large hammer helps too.

 

[Matt]

I typically remove the entire knuckle and pull off the rubber boot for the ball joint and as hutter said.... Heat it red hot. You pull the boot off since it'll catch fire and grease getting so hot it actually burns your eyes and nose. Have your socket and long ratchet ready and start working it back and forth slowly until it gives. Once the bolt is out the ball joint should come right out. Clean inside the area well before installing a new ball joint.

 

[Vecken]

From the description it sounds like pulling the motor is easier!

 

[i-wagon]

if you don't have torches, yes