Phase 2 EJ25 Bench tester think tank

[2point5RS_Dan]

So here's the deal. I have a phase 2 EJ25 that spins freely.

I have an engine stand.

I have a complete forester wiring harness with gauge cluster

I have a broken transmission I can cut the starter hole off of to make the space up to bolt a starter on.

So what I need is....

Fuel: regular gas can with an inline fuel pump, I think a ranger pump would work but if anyone knows something I can buy off rock auto the better. I have no idea what PSI these cars run at.

Figure out a way to fake out the VSS so I can rev past 4k.

Going to use a random battery.

I think all I need is a subaru starter and a fuel pump + do some wiring + a spare radiator if I want to get it up to temp.

If anyone has anything else I should be aware of or would like to donate let me know.

The idea is so that I can bench test my Ej25's before I sell them or drop them in cars. Eventually to the point where I can bench test ej25s in peoples driveways.

 

[Meyagi]

as long as you hook the neutral switch up so the ecu thinks your in neutral it wont put the rev limit on, not that over 4k with no load is a good idea with no flywheel/clutch to dampen harmonics...

 

[Chris]

Well I know how to fake out the speedo thingy, you've seen my speedo thing. But that won't even be needed. The ECU only goes into limp mode if it detects load on the engine with no speed. You can rev a car in park all day long and it's not gonna go in limp mode because it's not under load or moving.

I've done ford ranger fuel pump conversion in my car, it's easy. I tapped the 10mm threads out to 1/8npt and used a 5/16" barb, which is the size fuel hose subaru uses.

It's not gonna bolt to an engine stand probably because you have a trans chunk sticking out the ass end of the motor. So gonna have to figure something there.

Also it needs an exhaust with muffler (so you can hear the damn thing)and o2 sensor.

You don't need a battery, just use a jump pack or jumper cables to a car. You don't need a radiator. Just run a hose to the water inlet and let the outlet piss water on the ground. Or a bucket. You really should have water flow for more than 30 seconds run time or you'll built up hot spots in the head pretty fast.

EDIT:

as long as you hook the neutral switch up so the ecu thinks your in neutral it wont put the rev limit on, not that over 4k with no load is a good idea with no flywheel/clutch to dampen harmonics...

It would need a flywheel anyway for the starter.

 

[Meyagi]

duh. i haz teh dumz

 

[2point5RS_Dan]

So subaru starter in the way, just make a plate for the stand so it has large contact area but the starter has clearance.

Ranger fuel pump is a go.

As for cooling, I'd ideally like to set this thing up to get up to temp on the cluster. Just so I can shoot video and be like "look it works fine". As much as I'd like to just run a hose in if it's a whatever no fucks given build for my projects, I'm overbuilding this thing.

Right now this thread is "what am I buying on rock auto + who wants to donate starters"

I have the manifolds and i can ghetto in O2s.

 

[Chris]

Well with a hose it'll still read temp. The temp sensor is in the crossover pipe that goes between sides of the block. If you're always feeding in cold water, it'll still come up to temp just fine and stay there. That's the point of the thermostat. Older marine engines and outboards are like that. Just run raw cold seawater through them. The tstat keep it at the proper temp.

 

[2point5RS_Dan]

I'm going to try and get the EJ on a stand this weekend and dump the 5.0 garbage in the shed. I'm more worried about getting it to spin and run and then deal with cooling it for extended periods.

 

[2point5RS_Dan]

I worked on the bench tester.

Cut the starter corner off a bad transmission with a sawzall. Then started to try and ID some of the harness. My ECU is missing and two other people have touched this thing so I have parts missing of the main fuse in engine bay fuse block :|

WTF is this thing:

Nissan door relay that is in the fist full of wires down one leg of the loom I labelled "useless door shit"

Mystery brown plug that goes to stuff in the engine bay? It connects to the engine bay fuse block

Radio connector + other center console crap probably? I'm sure it can all be deleted, but I want to ID every connector before I start deleting circuits.

Illumination controller? Probably don't need this:

I've only stripped a few sections that I've ID'd and just cut the loom back:

Pretty sure these three go to the now missing ECU.

These are on the engine harness. I know the two little ones are reverse and neutral transmission switches, but the big one and the 3 pin I'm not sure of. Big one is probably transmission or something.

I'll actually sit with a service manual and look at more stuff next weekend. The bigger issue is that I'm missing fuse block stuff.

Stuff I still need:

starter

flywheel

ecu

fuel lines

dig out engine stand

figure out harness better

fab exhaust

 

[2point5RS_Dan]

Chris is giving me a flywheel + bolts + my ECU back.

Just need starter and fuel lines and to unfuck the wiring.

 

[Matt]

I think the " wtf is this thing " is a blower motor resistor.

 

[2point5RS_Dan]

Another issue I forsee is crank triggers.

Some of them are different, I'll either have to wire up a crank trigger converter box for different engines, or switch ECUs or something?

 

[Meyagi]

switching ecus will be easier. if i had the harness here i could tell you what 90% of the plugs do...

 

[2point5RS_Dan]

switching ecus will be easier. if i had the harness here i could tell you what 90% of the plugs do...

I'll bring it by next time I visit you for tire time.

 

[2point5RS_Dan]

Forester ECU + ej25 flywheel and crank bolts delivered. All I need is a starter.

Then it's just power up the ECU and run some fuel and coolant hoses.