"Run Mode Change System Check"

Carter

Carter

Administrator
WTF. This is how my day went. I went to Sears, Home Depot, Touchless Carwash, and Sears(different location). At the last stop (sears) I came back out to my car, and it wouldnt start. It would just click like the battery was dead. But it wasn't, its brand new, reading 12+ volts. and I would get this error in the info screen...

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I unplugged the battery, plugged it back in and nothing, still that error. So I called my buddy, and we cleaned the contacts, but still just clicking. Then we though maybe we could jump start it. I bought jumper cables at the hardware store next door, and we tried jumping it. still clicked, so I let it sit for a while, then it started to turn over, but slow and long. all the lights on the dash were very dim, but it didnt click. I tried a second time and it did turn over after a while. According to the manual this error is related to the SI-Drive, and states that it is malfunctioning. After I got it started the car ran fine and switched between I S and S# fine. Any ideas? The only thing I have is HID's and we disconnected them but this still showed up.

 
Come on, you Subaru techs gotta know something!

After I got the car home, I shut it off and of course it wouldnt start. I had to jump it. This time it went into a "limp mode". The "S" light was flashing, and it would only stay in 3rd gear. I had to have it towed to the dealer. ( Yes MMM ) It idles wierd...

 
you have a dead battery.

Measuring the voltage isn't going to tell how much amperage you have.

 
I had to have it towed to the dealer. ( Yes MMM )
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see now, theres your problem right there....

;D

inski's right though, sounds like you're battery isn't holding a charge. i'd have MMM put a new one in since they just sold you the car. tell them not to dicker with it just put a new battery in. my guess is that the si drive goes into that mode when it doesn't have enough amperage to change modes or something. maybe it doesn't have the amps to work properly, so its telling you to 'run a check' on the 'mode change system' (maybe that is more clear wording?).

 
My car is still at the dealer. They cant find out what is wrong. They claim they are having a hard time with the wiring as I have the aftermarket HID kit. I dont see whats so hard about it. Harness to ballest and bulb. Factory harness to bulb. NO WIRES WERE CUT OR SPLICED. I've disconnected the harness from the battery, and unplugged the stock harness from the bulbs. I have even removed the headlight fuses, with no effect. I have personally rules out the HID's as the problem, but what the heck do I know
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The dealer probably wont give me a new battery because I have a brand new Duralast Gold in there. Besides, the stock 490 CCA battery was crap.

 
I sincerely hope that they don't find a wiring or electrical problem with your car.

It sounds like they are already setting it up to blame your HIDs and bend you over.

 
I sincerely hope that they don't find a wiring or electrical problem with your car.

It sounds like they are already setting it up to blame your HIDs and bend you over.
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My thoughts exactly. But I will dispute it.

 
I went to the dealer this morning and replaced the HID bulbs with the factory halogens. My car started right up. I always had a problem with the right ballast so I plugged that one back in and it wouldnt restart. I put the halogen back in and it wouldnt start again.

 
I went to the dealer this morning and replaced the HID bulbs with the factory halogens. My car started right up. I always had a problem with the right ballast so I plugged that one back in and it wouldnt restart. I put the halogen back in and it wouldnt start again.
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haha looks like for once mmm got it right. sucks to be you.......

jk ;D ;D ;D ;D

 
I went to the dealer this morning and replaced the HID bulbs with the factory halogens. My car started right up. I always had a problem with the right ballast so I plugged that one back in and it wouldnt restart. I put the halogen back in and it wouldnt start again.
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haha looks like for once mmm got it right. sucks to be you.......

jk ;D ;D ;D ;D
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if I didnt see that "jk" I was going to go up one side of you and down the other.

Any way I just got a call from the dealershiip. Verdict: Bad Battery (Chris you ARE a genious
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)

And even better news they did not give me a hard time about the HID's and they are not billing me for ANYTHING, rental, labor nothing. I know people have said, even I that MMM service wise is not great, they didnt have to do that.

P.S. "Built to last, DuraLast!" is a crock of raisin... Duralast Gold 800 CA & 640 CCA - Now it tests 64 CA :
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Well from what I have seen personally the stock ones are prone to lleakage, and the 490 CCA wasn't cutting it for me. I guess it was better than the 64 lol

 
This may be STUPID question but Why change out the battery on a new car with a duracrap anyway?
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Also why are you dissing Duralast?

There are only three major manufacuters, Johnson Controls Industries, Exide, and Delphi. Johnson Controls being the major one manufacturing for Ford Motorcraft, Sears-Diehard, AutoZone-Duralast, Interstate, and Kirkland-Costco. What do you perfer? And dont say Optima because my shoe would work better.

 
I guess my little NA 2.5 liter turns over easier than the turbo (not really) but at -10F she turns over just fine.

Just getting things at AutoZone and VIP is they are Discount auto parts. They have the batteries built to their specs. But to each his own on that.

Not trying to start anything as I have changed much on my 07 Impreza but i wouldn't put their brake pads on my car either.

Why was the Factory battery not working out for ya?

Was the car having a hard time turning over on the really cold days?

 
With the stock battery it would take longer to turn over, and my battery light would blink (which wasn't a big deal) I just had no confidence in it.

 
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