Stuck Subframe bolt

Gate4jg

Gate4jg

New member
Im replacing the subframe bushings and of course the last bolt I cant get out. I have moved it an inch but that's it. its been blasted with WD40 and I tried using the impact wrench and breaker bar but nothing!!! Any ideas what else I can do???

 
Maybe heat? And WD40 really won't do anything as far as freeing a rusted bolt. Try PB Blaster or the like.

 
IBratmanI said:
Maybe heat? And WD40 really won't do anything as far as freeing a rusted bolt. Try PB Blaster or the like.
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I just ran out and bought some PB blaster. Hopefully it will do the trick if not some mechanic will be making some good money off of me from F*ing up. It makes no sense though the 3 others took no effort but the last one by the exhaust pipe is fighting me all the way.

 
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Try working it back and forth too, like thread it back in, and then out. Often it will slowly but surely start coming out with this method.

 
Deep creep is the stuff!!!! Just removed some rear sub frame bolts outta my 250k mile bug eye thanks to deep creep

 
PB it, or get some heat into it. I love my oxy/ace setup.

What are you replacing the subframe bushings with? I haven't found an aftermarket setup for them.

 
2point5RS_Dan said:
On your 08? Seems to me part #KDT907 is listed as GH/GR fitment. If they fit in GD chassis subframe I am interested
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Yep for my 08. I did put the calipers on the bushings and where it would be going and the diameter of the hole is 6.3 cm and the bushing is 6.5. So it should fit.

 
so can you get the subframe off and see an exposed portion of snapped off bolt? Vice grips or pipe wrench + breaker bar to try and get it loose after putting some heat into it. If there isn't much left, grind it flat with a grinder and drill/tap a new hole. If you snapped off the captive nut inside the body and the bolt is just spinning, you either have to drill into the body to get to the back of the broken weldnut, or get creative and cut the bolt off. good luck

 
1/2 inch thread still in and it broke flush...... I give up. Anyone want a slightly broken 08 2.5i???? Selling point it has new BC coilovers in it now.....

 
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Everything can be fixed
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jamey said:
Everything can be fixed
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very true and my punishment right now until its fixed is driving the chrysler equivalent to the dodge neon sxt.......... i guess now if i see a parked car i should race it!!!

 
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I would center punch the bolt and drill it out. Work your way up in size. If you are slightly off center you will allow the bolt to start collapsing by using the punch near the exposed threads. Done just right you wont hurt the threads and will be able to easy out the last bit without a problem. I have done this to many bolts while out on ships for training.

Here is a chart that might help you. I would not use the actual tap drill size but one that is slightly under to allow for some error if you aren't spot on.

http://www.physics.ncsu.edu/pearl/Tap_Drill_Chart.html

 
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