as common as taking out the trash, a chip can form on any car.
the sube is a well known unibody with AWD. The old steel used to be very very responsive in the spirng like category of painting..very difficult,especially new england, and me in northern maine. the thermals literally shrunk/expand the car. todays subes and rusting, you may want to find spots that need weld in structure, just like the old, I find behind and forward of rear wheel wells, aft rocker beams and the front end bar they make for forestors (goes behind th efender) is a good place to start with keeping a body nice.
and the rules have been the same for every successful car:
primer (I chose crystalline silica bsed, very thick, no thinner) to aid in shrinking to expansion, and expanding to steel shrinkage...it owns the active steel if done right.
base coat metallic- not exactly expensive.
two part urethane, do NOT fall for acrylic, or all in one cans, it is a water based sick joke, epa loves it.
no reason to get uptight. the sube demands a lot and always has... from a unibody, all connected, no forgiveness... it is an act of difficult precision.
