Torn CV boot

[4WRXter]

So, we have a torn inner front CV boot on the Outblack.

Can I replace just the boot?

Does this mean removing the spindle/knuckle to remove the axle?

Does the above mean breaking the ball joint pinch bolt...which means drilling through the spindle and putting in a longer bolt and nut? Or could I take off the castle nut, and take it apart that way?

 

[Chris]

First off, there's no excuse ever to break the balljoint pinch bolt. It gets broken by monkeys who take an impact to it. Soak it, heat it good and hot, and turn it out carefully with a wrench. And it won't break. Secondly, don't pop the ball joint to change an axle. Unbolt the two strut bolts. Mark the position of the top one because that sets camber. This way you'll get it back in the same direction. With the strut unbolted you can get the axle out, it's a bit of a tight squeeze, but it's possible. It may help to also unbolt the sway bar.

Remember to get the axle nut off first before doing this, if you don't have air tools you're gonna need to break it free with the center cap off the wheel still on the ground. If you have air tools.... BAP BAP BAP BAP you're all good.

Also, yes, you can just replace the boot. Buy a boot kit. If it's been torn for any length of time you should completely disassemble the joint, clean it, and put new CV grease in. Very important, only use CV grease, nothing else.

Even if it just failed, good idea to take it apart and clean it all out. You'll get more life out of the axle. You have to pull it mostly apart anyway to get a new boot over the shaft.

 

[IBratmanI]

It's also sometimes very helpful to unbolt the forward control arm bolt.

The few that I have taken the ball joint out to do, I always leave it in the spindle, and just pull the control arm down off of it. That gives lots of room to get the axle out.

 

[4WRXter]

Thanks guys. It doesn't sound too bad. I was thinking this one may be a shop job, but maybe a driveway project after all.

No air tools, but I recently acquired a Ryobi 18V cordless impact wrench. I have 4 batteries for that already, so I just keep rotating them through the two chargers I have. The Ryobi works pretty good. I recently changed the rear bumper on my truck (quite rusty),. And took some plow push plates off a '95 rustbucket plow truck.

 

[JoshP]

I recently did 2 axles in 1.5 hrs, and I had a lot of trouble with the 2nd one.  If its been in there a while then it might be seized to the hub.  I'd use this tool to remove it then (I didnt have one on hand) 

You can also use a 2 jaw rotor puller. 

Like Chris said, mark the strut bolts and pull them.  that's ALL you have to do.  You dont even have to pull the lower one, just loosen it and leave it in. 

I mark the top strut bolt 1-2 days earlier, with a paint pen, then its dry when its time to change it.  The axle nut gets 135 ft/lbs torque. 

 

[injulen]

My outer CV joint on the passenger side failed on me after driving around with a torn boot for oh about two or three months. I was making a sharp low speed turn into my sister's house and I heard a loud bang and then as I continued rolling forward, some funky grindy noises. I quickly stopped and found that I couldn't put the car in park. Luckily my sister's house has a garage with a basic hand tool set. I was able to roll the car in the garage and using just her tools get the old axle out and a new one in. The tips given above are all great advice.

The hardest parts for me were:

1. Removing the castle nut. I broke a 1/2" ratchet trying to loosen it. I didn't have a proper 1/2" drive breaker bar either so I ended up using a cold chisel to weaken the nut to the point that it loosened up.

2. Separating the ball joint from the control arm. I ended up taking the pinch bolt out, without breaking it, because I could NOT get the ball joint stud out of the control arm.

3. The locking pin that goes in the differential end. It took a lot of finagling to get that thing out. Part of my problem was I didn't have the exact size punch so I was using every screwdriver I could find to make it work.

All said and done it took me a good 7 hours of running to the parts store and headaches. My sister later found all of the ball bearings from the CV joint in her driveway. I was just freaking happy it didn't fail on my at a higher speed.

 

[Chris]

I'm gonna say it again, don't dick around with separating the balljoint. Don't do it, just unbolt the strut. You have a good chance of hurting the balljoint boot or breaking something. I only pull balljoints when I'm replacing them. Balljoint removal tip... Take a big long prybar (like 4' long or more) and put it between the knuckle and control arm. Jump on it until something breaks. If you can't get the balljoint out of the knuckle, pull off the boot and get a bigass pipewrench over the case of the balljoint, and try to spin it. This will break free the rust bonds and it'll just come out. Of course this ruins everything, but there's no reason to mess with a balljoint unless you're replacing it, bent your control arm, or need a wheel bearing. Ball joints are like $12, is in these cases I ruin the thing and put in a new one with the job.

 

[IBratmanI]

I always just use a really big hammer, or even a maul and give the front edge of the control arm a good whack and the ball joint pops right out of the control arm. It was something I was taught by a Subaru guy and it has never failed me yet.

 

[Chris]

Yea, beating the piss out of it works every time. I don't use that method when I'm re-using balljoints anymore, though. I did that on my GL, and then the balljoint got really loose and clunky about 3 months later. Coincident? I dunno. I always kinda felt beating the shit out of a part like that was bad for it.

 

[IBratmanI]

No need to beat the shit out of it. I actually hate working on cars that way. Just a good whack or 2. That actually shouldn't cause much more stress than the ball joint sees on a daily basis of driving on a Maine road!

 

[2point5RS_Dan]

Yeah, no need to undo the balljoint. Just undo the strut bolts as has been said. If you need more room still undo a control arm bolt or endlink.

 

[4WRXter]

OK. Sounds "easy" enough. Must get a boot kit, socket for the axle nut (32mm?????), banding tool??, and a punch. One of the worst things is that the nearest parts store with any inventory is 45 miles away. Again, thanks guys for the reassurance.

 

[2point5RS_Dan]

32 mm for the axle nut.

 

[Chris]

Just use stainless lock wire to hold the axle boots on. It works perfectly fine. Or use a bigass heavy duty zip tie. There isn't any load, you just need it to be tight so grease doesn't get out.

Don't forget a 3/16" punch for the axle roll pin

 

[SUBARUDE]

Sorry but his doesn't have a roll pin Chris

 

[Chris]

Oh wtf ever, he didn't post a year so i had no idea.

 

[2point5RS_Dan]

It's easier without rollpins

 

[SUBARUDE]

Oh wtf ever, he didn't post a year so i had no idea.

Why don't you go find some midol and calm down with your wtf if you didn't know then put this would in your post this would applies to 04 and old subies or ask what year outback he owns so just relax!

 

[4WRXter]

So, I vaguely remember reading somewhere that on certain model year cars (ours I assume) there is a circle clip that holds the axle to the dif shaft. I am also assuming that I just pull the axle off?? Probably going to take something between the axle and dif to pry it a little.?? And then it pushes back on?? Do I need to get one of those clips to replace? Sorry to be so needy. Just trying to prepare myself for what to expect.