What is, and how to use RELAY guide.

Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
If you're one of those people who hear the word “Relay” and get scared... This guide is for you.

Also, I focus on wiring hellas, so read on if that's what you want.

So what the heck IS a relay?

Why would I ever use a relay?

How do I use a relay?

It's pretty simple, folks. A relay is a switch. I'm going to assume here you know how to hook something up to a battery with a switch. That's fairly straight forward, right?

Well, a relay is pretty much just as simple.

A relay is a switch that, instead of being turned on and off by user input (ie. Your finger), it's turned on and off by an electrical signal.

There are a few reasons you would use a relay, but the general idea boils down to this. You want to turn something on and off with a signal load that can't support the full current of what you want to run. WHAT THE HECK DOES THAT MEAN?!

It means this. Say I want to add 4 Hella 500's to my car. I want them to come on when I turn on my high beams. But here's the problem, I can't just wire them into the car wiring harness to my high beam light bulb. It's only designed to handle the pathetic whimpy high beam. So adding ~14 amps to that circuit will hopefully just blow the fuse. I say hopefully blow the fuse because the alternate is it'll melt your wiring and start a fire.

You could run a wire into your cabin to turn the hellas on and off with battery power, but that's annoying. Now you have to turn off your high beams AND hellas for traffic.

SO here is where you meet Mr. Relay. Remember, he's a switch. So you have power directly from your battery to the hellas using the relay as a switch to turn them on and off.

That's great, how does the switch know to turn on and off?

It uses the power to high beams as a SIGNAL to turn the relay switch on, or off. So no power (ok, like 1/4 of an amp) is drawn from the car wiring. Pretty nifty, eh?

Ok dood, that's confusing, give me some pictures!!!

I've disected a relay for you.

Here's a relay in the off state.

1_relay_off.jpg


Note a few things, the coil. That is what the signal goes to. The coil is an electro-magnet. When it gets power it physically moves the contacts. The things you can see at the front of the realy.

When you give it power the contacts move and connect the circuit.

This is what it looks like on

2_relay_on.jpg


This is the case of the relay, it has the wiring diagram. The numbers correspond to numbers by the terminals on the bottom. More to follow.

Here's the case.

3_relay_cover.jpg


From this picture, it's easy to figure out how it works.

87 and 30 are the switch terminals. The load terminals, the one the power wire from the battery to the hellas goes through. Think of this half just like a normal person-operated switch.

85 and 86 are the coil. When you give the coil power it's like taking your fat finger and pushing a physical switch. It connects pins 87 and 30 together to make the circuit to turn on your lights.

I should note here, polarity doesn't matter. So you can hook up the coil either way, and have power going through the switch either way.

Here's the bottom of the relay, the part you hook stuff to.

3_relay_bottom.jpg


You can see it has the same number that were on the cover.

Note: the switch contacts are copper colour. The signal contacts are silver colour. Almost all the relays I've seen are like this, so that's a big help.

Ok, so I understand what a relay is, tell me how to hook wires up to it!!!!

I've made a mock up of how your car is wired on my desk. So here we go.

4_all_off.jpg


In case you can't read my crappy hand writing, this is what the numbers are.

  1. Negative from light to battery
  2. Positive from battery to fuse to relay to light
  3. There isn't one
  4. Relay
  5. Fuse
  6. Hella disable (more on that)
  7. Negative signal from high beam (I'll explain that)


Also, you'll see I've scribbled some yellow with paint to emphasis there's a yellow wire there. It's hard to see in the pic.

So what do we have here?

Power will flow from the battery to a fuse. That's pretty straight forward. The fuse is protecting both the relay/light circuit, AND the signal wire circuit.

The power goes from the fuse to the switch half of the relay, then to the light. (not a hella in this case, but still 55w)

There's a negative from the light to the battery

So far, this is straight forward.

Then my scribbly yellow to half of the coil. We need positive and negative to power the coil, negative comes from the high beam, so I gave it positive downstream of the fuse. So now the coil has a fused positive. Makes it for a safe installation.

Then the negative to turn on the coil from your high beam. Explained below.

Finally the red button simulates the high beam toggle inside your car, the little tiny switch is the hella disable.

Basically allows you to turn on the high beams but have the hellas off (useful for inspection, etc).

So now you can see, if the high beam button is pushed AND the little switch is on, negative will be delivered to the coil. It'll turn on, close the switch, and turn on the light.

--------------------

Negatively switch headlights.

I'll take an aside here to explain. Headlights on a subaru are negatively switched. Meaning this. The bulb has two filaments, one for high, one for low. That's why there's 3 pins. The common always gets positive, and negative is SWITCHED to either the low beam, or the high beam pin. Hence, negatively switched. This is why we use the negative from the high beam to activate the relay.

If you have a newer car with a high and low bulb separate, the concept is the same. Your projector/low beam is always on, your high beam gets a negative connected when it comes on

---------------------------

So let's press my buttons.

Currently the hella disable is OFF. We shall press the High beam button, what happens?

5_hbon_sw_off.jpg


NOTHING! Good, that's what's supposed to happen. In the car, the high beam would have come on, the hellas would have stayed off.

In this pic, high beams are off (no button push), let's flip the switch!

6_sw_on.jpg


Nothing happens! Good, that's what's supposed to happen.

But now, if we push the high beam button, the hella will come on!

GO ON YOU IDIOT, PUSH THE BUTTON!!!!

Ok...

7_both_on.jpg


It works, of course, because Chris wired it.

If you don't understand it now, comment and I'll make you understand it.

DISCLAIMER:

If you mess up the wiring in your car or electrocute yourself, it isn't my fault!!

I have no certification, degree, training, etc working with electricity. I make lots of money wiring boats though, so I know what I'm doing.

HAVE FUN!

 

Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
Close, nix the wire that runs under your number 4 on the coil diagram. The idea is that both switches have to be on to turn on the coil.

 
Switch "7" is for the high beams. Switch "6" is the disable switch. Without "6" connected no power will go through the coil marked "4". The wire under is to allow the high beams to still get their signal while "6" is turned off.

 

Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
Sorta. None of the wiring you see here has anything to do with the stock car high beams, except the red button. in real life, there would be two wires coming off the button. One to the hella switch, and one to the high beams themselves (well, actually the high beam relay).

The rest is entirely stuff to run the hella circuit.

I think this is how the hella wiring harness that comes out of the box works, but I'm not entirely sure. I've never bought a new set, only got them used with no wiring, or with butchered up wiring.

 

Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
Ok, so I guess some people like wiring diagrams better. I personally hate them. I made one with paint. I usually draw these by hand and scan them in, I'm too lazy. Here is my paint + trackpad mad skillz.

The one called "stock HB" means "stock high beam switch"

relay_diagram.png


 
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I love a good wiring diagram. Just wish I had the program I had before.

I see how your setup works now. My concern with that is if the coil decides to melt down and short you will get lots of current into your high beam circuit. I would rather isolate the control from the high current as much as possible.

 

Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
I suppose if you're worried about that you could put like a 0.5A fuse on the positive side of the coil.

But if the coil somehow became a solid mass it would blow the fuse between it and the battery. That's why we have fuses.

Or it would blow the fuse in the high beam circuit. Also, in the car it isn't quite that simple. I connect the relay to the actual harness right before the bulb. That gets makes for the shortest run of wire to the lights, this is what you want for the least drop and most power to them. So the signal for the high beams is actually going through all the car wiring crap, through a few fuses, a relay or two, etc. If the coil somehow turns solid it'll blow a fuse.

If the coil did decide to melt though, the wire going into the coil is like 80 gauge wire or something tiny, it would most likely melt where it connects to the terminal before any fuses even got warm.

Although, an interesting point... I'm going to have to see how much it takes to melt the wire from the terminal into the coil. I'm thinking less than 10A.

 
You should remember. I'm looking at this from a design background and a good amount of time studying industrial applications. Sometimes I look at things worst case and figure out how to prevent that.

 

Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
You should remember. I'm looking at this from a design background and a good amount of time studying industrial applications. Sometimes I look at things worst case and figure out how to prevent that.
You're ahead of most automakers with that one....

 

drvsdwz

DRiVe SiDeWayZ
one extremely important thing not mentioned here...there are two types of relays. Normally open(NO) and normally closed(NC)

for this application you want the Normally open. This will make what Chris described happen the way you want it to. If you get a normally closed relay and use that, then your HELLAs will be on when the high beams are off, and off when the high beams are on.

one quick way to check the relay to see what type it is, is to look at it. In the picture of the relay above, with nothing connected to it, that is a normally open relay. If it was normally closed, the contacts would be touching while the relay was de-energized.

Just thought I would add that little piece :)

 
one extremely important thing not mentioned here...there are two types of relays. Normally open(NO) and normally closed(NC)

for this application you want the Normally open. This will make what Chris described happen the way you want it to. If you get a normally closed relay and use that, then your HELLAs will be on when the high beams are off, and off when the high beams are on.

one quick way to check the relay to see what type it is, is to look at it. In the picture of the relay above, with nothing connected to it, that is a normally open relay. If it was normally closed, the contacts would be touching while the relay was de-energized.

Just thought I would add that little piece :)
Good idea, that would make someones day very long.

 

2point5RS_Dan

HATER DAN
Since you guys like wiring diagrams, here is the diagram and info from rally lights:

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/AuxLampWiring.aspx

A2lZh.gif


This is pretty basic wiring and should be straight forward even if you are starting from scratch. You can use 14awg wire throughout except for the battery wire from Pin 30 to the battery and the ground wire from the battery to the first splice for the ground for the lamps use 12awg for those two wires. Alternately, use two 14awg wires from the battery ground to the lamps. If you are sure you have a good ground, you can ground the lamps locally instead of running the wires back to the battery.

Some may want to use a three position switch for the control switch. One position would be as shown, that is, controlled by either the high or low beam circuit, the center position would be off, and the other position would be to +12V for override on. Note that the +12V used should be a source of +12 that is switched by the ignition switch, so when you turn the vehicle off, the lights go out.

If you are using my Hella Relay Kit, then you want to get a Crimper for the relay base pins from Radio Shack or another electronic supply store.

For wire sizing information, you may want to check our Sensible Wiring Guide.

Note -- The control circuit assumes a conventionally wired OE headlamp system. That is, the +12V is switched to the high and low beams. On some Japanese cars, the GROUND is switched instead. In that case, you would apply battery to pin 85 of the relay and the high or low beam circuit to the other side of the on/off switch.
The hella 500 kit comes with the wiring, relay, and switch. You can use that setup to wire in more lights later.

I've got my 4x hella 500s wired up similar to how chris explained it. It is very important to have both a switch and a high beam switch. In the city I keep the hellas off, but in the country I flip the switch and let the high beams do the work. Dipping the beams when you see headlights on the powerlines around a corner so you don't blind the poor SOB coming.

You can also get fancy and use trailer hitch connectors to make light quick disconnects.

2011-04-24%25252016.46.16.jpg


Happy wiring.

 

scubiecraig

New member
The more I read, the more I get confused. I'm a hands on type of person, so once I'm out there and wiring, I'm sure I'll be fine. I think I'm just getting myself more worried than I need to be. My only question (really) is what wire do I splice into for the high beams? Does anyone have a picture they could share of what color the high beam wire I'm supposed to splice into looks like?

 

Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
Find your high beam bulb. It's the one that goes into the reflector, not the projector. Just pretend you need to replace your high beam bulb.

Once you find it, turn it on and put a meter on it. Figure out which one is negative, that's the one you use.

 

scubiecraig

New member
I'm going to need to pick up a light meter. I see they can be had for fairly cheap, and I happen to have a gift card to Home Depot in my possession... so I know what that is going towards!
default_smile.png


Oh, and the one that is negative should not make the lightmeter light up, correct? Only the positive one should make it light up?

 
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Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
I'm going to need to pick up a light meter. I see they can be had for fairly cheap, and I happen to have a gift card to Home Depot in my possession... so I know what that is going towards!
default_smile.png


Oh, and the one that is negative should not make the lightmeter light up, correct? Only the positive one should make it light up?
Meter is a very handy tool for working on cars!

You put one lead of the meter on each lead going to the light bulb. One way it'll say 14v the other way it'll say -14v. When it's listed as a negative voltage that means you have the pos and neg leads backwards. So if it's reading positive voltage that means you have the red on the positive, and the black on the negative.

 

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