Whiteline Adjustable Sway Install with Kartboy Endlinks (with pics)

RedForester08

RedForester08

New member
All I can say is It fits like a glove and the endlinks are awesome. No clunking got it set at 20mm and is sweet considering I got winter tires on. The Bar came with new bushing and even some white greese.The Endlinks came with new bolts washers and locking nuts. Best $249 New package setup one could put on a car. Now I can tell the next weak link is the non slotted and drilled rotors. Just need to get it to stop better now it will fly threw the corner like it is on rails.

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The STI axleback looks and sounds good too.

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Stay away from the drilled rotors!!!!!

upgrade your pads first! You aren't even coming close to the performance threshold of the stock rotors. (and street driving drilled rotors, develop stress cracks quickly)

 
What pads do you recommend for spirited type driving? I have only the 2 piston front and 1 piston rear calipers.
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It depends on you driving style and what you want to do with them: autoX? rallyX?

Daily Driving aggressive: EBC Green

Daily with AutoX/RallyX: EBC Red

AutoX and trakck ONLY: EBC Yellow

 
I might have to look into the Greens for myself for now, but mumma says we are going Auto Xin' this season so maybe red, tough decision............................................................

 
my brembo's are cross-drilled n slotted and have over 10,000 mile's on them and they still look fine no stess crack or any thing and they stop way better then the stockers

 
Green is a choice of many autoX guys. The reds will take a split to bite in the cold. and they are noisier.

greens are a good upgrade. the reds are for more race apps.

unless your stock rotors were in real bad shape the cross drilled rotors offer less friction surface than stock, and should (and typically do) brake worse. Best bet out of the box are pads.

 
my .02 pennies
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my RS has drilled, slotted rotors front and rear, had green stuff, now has red stuff. Braking is awesome, have no issues, other than the greens coming apart?! +50k on them and I'm NOT kind to them.

I also have the 18, 20, 22 Whiteline rear sway, perrin endlinks, tho.

k
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The whole line of EBC pads was re-formulated to reduce that crubling. Subiegal.com had a good writeup on the reds and yellows.

 
Thanks guys. I'll start with EBC greens and see how that goes this springs I will need to stop this thing good without loosing the grab of cheap bads. Is there an upgrade for the rear calliper and rotor to a 2 piston liike the front?

 
Thanks guys. I'll start with EBC greens and see how that goes this springs I will need to stop this thing good without loosing the grab of cheap bads. Is there an upgrade for the rear calliper and rotor to a 2 piston liike the front?
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no need to upgrade. unless you are starting to get into extended track sessions you can work with stock calipers.

what makes you think you are going to loose the grab of "cheap" pads?

 
Well yesterday while out trying the S/B there is a road about 3 miles long and as curved as a Ralli-X course with lots of up and down curves. It is a F---ing blast to drive. But the brakes get somewhat soft under hard braking. I do drive very aggressive and just want this thing to stop great when I what it to. The abs is always working on this road as you will 50% of the time not have all 4 tires on the road. It's my private little test course. Just as long as the farmers don't get pissed.

 
*Sniff* Do I *Sniff* smell a *Sniff* group drive *Sniff* road here? *Sniff*

 
I think the RED's will serve you just fine. It was the yellow's with a bit of a lesser cold bite. I am getting RED's myself as soon as the miotter is settled.

The pads are fading, after Better pads put in a full synthetic brake fluid ATE Super blue or equivilant (Full System drain for that and a clean)

 
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