Wiring Fogs and Driving Lights

[Stein]

I need a bit more help on wiring my fogs.

First of all, I wasn't sure how to test if the lights were working. I tried powering a single light off of my battery both with the engine running and without, and I couldn't get the bulb to light. I'll get to the lights themselves once I get the rest of the circuit running, I don't want to try to run them again without a fuse.

Questions:

Is it possible to use empty fuse slots in one of the fuse boxes? There was one spot in particular (fuse 3 or 4) that had a slash through it on the legend, but there was a 15A fuse in anyway. I'm not sure if I should build a little box to house the two relays and fuses, but there were plenty of empty relay slots in the engine-bay fuse box. No idea what the best plan is.

I also couldn't figure out which fuse was for the stock fogs. There was a label for "R FOG" but also one for "F FOG" which threw me off. No empty slots in either fuse box either, except for the FWD fuse.

I found a little two-wire harness taped near my driver-side headlight that Gabe told me about. I'll probably use this for the fogs, and run my own wire for the driving lights. There's just the one header, right? I couldn't find one on the passenger side and I assume I should just wire from it to the two lights in parallel.

Last question: in a quest to remove the blanks from left of the steering wheel, I got stumped. Do I have to pull the lower dash away and pop them out from the back?

 

[i-wagon]

A: do you have a tester light? if so, once you get the switch in, turn it on and use tester light to see if that harness has power.

B: I'm not sure about your car, but you can try to gently pry the blanks out with a small screwdriver. if not, try popping them out from behind

C: don't worry about fuses until you establish that there isn't power to that harness

Q: yes, run both wires fromt hat harness if there isn't one from the other side

 

[Stein]

Thanks for the reply i-wagon.

By tester light, do you mean a continuity tester? I have one that Gabe gave me, but I think either the bulb is blown or I didn't get the batteries right. I got .01-.02V with a multimeter if that means anything, circuit was off. I'll try to get them off with a screwdriver without marring the plastic right now. I can't reach up behind them with the lower dash still on.

edit: no go with the screwdrivers. Those things are on tight.

 

[Nigel Prodrive]

go to hella.com, they have excellent wiring diagrams. why try to re-create the wheel when there is no mystery, other ppl have figured this out.

unless you really want to cook different wiring while you work up the learning curve........btdt

PS those blank dash switches pop out easy from behind. pull the little ashtray thingie over the dash fuse panel and you can reach no prob. there's 2 tabs to squeeze together, pop! out they come. screwdriver is NOT the tool.

 

[Stein]

go to hella.com, they have excellent wiring diagrams. why try to re-create the wheel when there is no mystery, other ppl have figured this out.
unless you really want to cook different wiring while you work up the learning curve........btdt

PS those blank dash switches pop out easy from behind. pull the little ashtray thingie over the dash fuse panel and you can reach no prob. there's 2 tabs to squeeze together, pop! out they come. screwdriver is NOT the tool.

Thanks Nigel, I'll check out Hella's stuff. And I already tried reaching in from behind through the fuse cover, but there's a metal plate between the fuse box and the blanks. I'll try again though.

edit: got it. I unscrewed the clip that is hidden when the door is closed, then I just tugged on the dash, like I do with the center console pieces. What do you know, brute force works sometimes.

 

[stainless]

Great post. I am looking at doing this soon. but I was going to wire driving lights. already have fogs.