roadtrip1098
New member
How has this thing not sold yet?
"Lambo Blue" 1976 Datsun 280z.
- Thread starter boxerboost
- Start date
- Status
Apollyon12
Active member
To anyone who isn't familiar with these cars (or working on motors in general), saying there is a problem with the cam is a bit of a red flag. But the reality is that there are a number of easy fixes that could be done for relatively short money (I actually have the parts for a few of the options) and most are actually worth doing. Given the awsome condition this car is in, it is really a very good deal even with the minor issues.
boxerboost
New member
Thanks for the explanation / comment!
If you can come up with a quote for parts and helping me address the issue, I'd love to hear how much it would cost to make it right, Matt.
I'm really not interested in the whole putting money into it aspect just to sell it, because I might as well just keep it at that point, but I really wanna make the Lexus go fast.
If you can come up with a quote for parts and helping me address the issue, I'd love to hear how much it would cost to make it right, Matt.
I'm really not interested in the whole putting money into it aspect just to sell it, because I might as well just keep it at that point, but I really wanna make the Lexus go fast.
Apollyon12
Active member
You didn't seem particularly interested in the fix it/try something new route, so I didn't do any digging into costs. But I'll see what I can come up with.
Without any word on prices, or availabilty of parts, here are a few options:
A ) Megasquirt (the most money/time/effort and the most gain for current setup)
B ) Carb conversion to existing motor (block/head/cam)
1) Four Barrel (most reliable, easiest to tune)
2) Dual downdrafts (I have a set, very reliable, not sure about tuning, couldn't get much of a change with the jets I have)
3) OEM sidedrafts (I have a set, probably need work and tuning)
C ) Swap to a L24 head/cam (E31 best, most money, E88 will work well, most available) (I have one E88 available)
And either
1) keep fuel injection which might work given that the cam profile won't be too far different
2) one of the carb conversion options
This is a common/easy "race" motor that guys do. The E88 head will raise the compression a little on the L28 block, and tuned properly (with carbs) works really well.
D ) OEM cam (why do that when someone has already spent the money to put a big cam in there. Just make that work properly)
I actually have a whole bunch of questions regarding when and how the motor acts up, but it would probably just be a good deal easier if you just let me drive it some time and see what I think.
Without any word on prices, or availabilty of parts, here are a few options:
A ) Megasquirt (the most money/time/effort and the most gain for current setup)
B ) Carb conversion to existing motor (block/head/cam)
1) Four Barrel (most reliable, easiest to tune)
2) Dual downdrafts (I have a set, very reliable, not sure about tuning, couldn't get much of a change with the jets I have)
3) OEM sidedrafts (I have a set, probably need work and tuning)
C ) Swap to a L24 head/cam (E31 best, most money, E88 will work well, most available) (I have one E88 available)
And either
1) keep fuel injection which might work given that the cam profile won't be too far different
2) one of the carb conversion options
This is a common/easy "race" motor that guys do. The E88 head will raise the compression a little on the L28 block, and tuned properly (with carbs) works really well.
D ) OEM cam (why do that when someone has already spent the money to put a big cam in there. Just make that work properly)
I actually have a whole bunch of questions regarding when and how the motor acts up, but it would probably just be a good deal easier if you just let me drive it some time and see what I think.
Last edited by a moderator:
Apollyon12
Active member
So I think the easiest baseline for pricing is start with the cost at brand new, assume that used parts should be somewhere in the range of half that, then check some common forum and Ebay.
For the four barrel conversion, because you are looking at a manifold and carb, TheZStore sells the whole thing for around $900. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic17a07b There is one with a used carb on ebay for a current bid of $300 and I see one posting on HybridZ for an Arizona Z Car unit (they sell the manifold only and slightly cheaper) asking $450 for the whole thing. This is the easiest option to tune due to the fact that there is only one set of jets and you aren't trying to get two carbs to work together properly. Great reliability due to new parts and you could do a manual choke or electric on the carb.
TheZStore has the Webber DGV carbs for $870 new. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17a07c/11-3005 The page says 240z and 260z, but these will work on the 280z, we would just be removing the whole EFI as a unit. This is the setup I have on my OEM motor and it should work really well on an L28. I have jets for tuning and they only saw a season of use since I cleaned them. Even before I cleaned them, I had no reliabilty issues. I have started that motor in the middle of winter with only a little bit of effort, but that's says more about the health of the motor than the carbs.
A quick look on Ebay shows one used set for $445 and another for $259. I see one posting on HybridZ from 2011 that looks like he sold a good set in the neighborhood of $275.
The OEM L24/L26 SU side draft carbs can make decent power and could be used as a viable solution. I think that it's the vintage racers that usually go the route of hotrodding the old SU's. They are required to use the OEM stuff and you aren't. In order to get the the same power levels, there are much better routes, IE any of the other options. I have a set of three screw round tops, but they are in questionable condition, would need a good cleaning, are missing some parts (such as choke cable) and I'm not as confident in tuning them as I would be the DGV's. A reasonable price seems to be between $100 and $200.
I didn't mention doing a set of triples because you are now looking in the range of $1000 just to aquire a set. Tuning is much more of a nightmare, especially because you already have a big cam, but this is the true route to big power out of an L28.
Swapping heads or sourcing an OEM cam is not the way I would go. The E88 head that I have alone is not going to raise the compression as I had been thinking, you have to swap from dished pistons to flat top pistons. The valve chambers are the same. It would be a lot of work and you would be basically throwing away all the time and money someone put into doing the hot cam. Doing a carb conversion is much simpler and cheaper. If money wasn't an object, I would do the four barrel. I think they are cool, they have a good sound, run real good and would be super reliable. Of the two options I actually have available to you, the DGV's are the way to go. I have all the parts to make them work, I've had them off my motor before, I've cleaned and tuned them. I think I even have an intake/exhaust gasket downstairs (if I don't Napa has them readily available). I also have the Crane MSD box, that isn't working properly with the L28ET in my car currently, and we could get that (and the optical ignition) running on your motor as well. I could definitely feel the difference without it working.
For the four barrel conversion, because you are looking at a manifold and carb, TheZStore sells the whole thing for around $900. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic17a07b There is one with a used carb on ebay for a current bid of $300 and I see one posting on HybridZ for an Arizona Z Car unit (they sell the manifold only and slightly cheaper) asking $450 for the whole thing. This is the easiest option to tune due to the fact that there is only one set of jets and you aren't trying to get two carbs to work together properly. Great reliability due to new parts and you could do a manual choke or electric on the carb.
TheZStore has the Webber DGV carbs for $870 new. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17a07c/11-3005 The page says 240z and 260z, but these will work on the 280z, we would just be removing the whole EFI as a unit. This is the setup I have on my OEM motor and it should work really well on an L28. I have jets for tuning and they only saw a season of use since I cleaned them. Even before I cleaned them, I had no reliabilty issues. I have started that motor in the middle of winter with only a little bit of effort, but that's says more about the health of the motor than the carbs.
A quick look on Ebay shows one used set for $445 and another for $259. I see one posting on HybridZ from 2011 that looks like he sold a good set in the neighborhood of $275.
The OEM L24/L26 SU side draft carbs can make decent power and could be used as a viable solution. I think that it's the vintage racers that usually go the route of hotrodding the old SU's. They are required to use the OEM stuff and you aren't. In order to get the the same power levels, there are much better routes, IE any of the other options. I have a set of three screw round tops, but they are in questionable condition, would need a good cleaning, are missing some parts (such as choke cable) and I'm not as confident in tuning them as I would be the DGV's. A reasonable price seems to be between $100 and $200.
I didn't mention doing a set of triples because you are now looking in the range of $1000 just to aquire a set. Tuning is much more of a nightmare, especially because you already have a big cam, but this is the true route to big power out of an L28.
Swapping heads or sourcing an OEM cam is not the way I would go. The E88 head that I have alone is not going to raise the compression as I had been thinking, you have to swap from dished pistons to flat top pistons. The valve chambers are the same. It would be a lot of work and you would be basically throwing away all the time and money someone put into doing the hot cam. Doing a carb conversion is much simpler and cheaper. If money wasn't an object, I would do the four barrel. I think they are cool, they have a good sound, run real good and would be super reliable. Of the two options I actually have available to you, the DGV's are the way to go. I have all the parts to make them work, I've had them off my motor before, I've cleaned and tuned them. I think I even have an intake/exhaust gasket downstairs (if I don't Napa has them readily available). I also have the Crane MSD box, that isn't working properly with the L28ET in my car currently, and we could get that (and the optical ignition) running on your motor as well. I could definitely feel the difference without it working.
boxerboost
New member
I've got it up on some of the other sites for $4,750 firm now if anyone wants it before it's gone, couple of quick bites on Nasioc.
boxerboost
New member
Dropped to $4,000 firm if anyone knows someone looking for something!
Jamey
New member
I drive by this everyday .. beautiful ride man
boxerboost
New member
Thanks man. Still not sure how it hasn't sold!
Jamey
New member
If I had monies I'd be all over that.m but moving sucks lol
CoupedUpSubie
FWD-FTW
This popped up on the New England 86 Facebook, hope it sells.
This popped up on the New England 86 Facebook, hope it sells.
This popped up on the New England 86 Facebook, hope it sells.
boxerboost
New member
Me too! I really wanna get cracking on my other projects
Thanks for letting me know
Thanks for letting me know
boxerboost
New member
This is finally sold (and going to a good home!)
Please shut it down, thanks guys.
Please shut it down, thanks guys.
- Status