OEM (or similar) brake job on 2001 Outback

J

Jimbo

New member
I owe a buddy of mine bigtime, and I'm repaying him by helping him with a brake job. Car in question is a 2001 Outback wagon, and we're doing new pads and new rotors. I have a service manual for a 2000 Outback, so I'm not terribly worried about the process of what to do, I'm worried about parts.

I need to send him into Napa (or similar) for inexpensive parts to do the whole thing. What should we do or buy at the same time to make this a smart repair?

 
Sweet...keep 'em coming
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Synthetic caliper grease!! The pads usually come with a little packet, but it's always good to have some on hand. I have 2 tubes, just in case!

 
Managed to find a service manual for a 2000 Outback. Anyone know of major differences (or PITA minor ones) between the 2000 and the 2001? We're working on an '01.

 
shouldnt need a torch, with any luck. ... . just spray the bolts the night before with pb blaster, or some other penetrating oil. that allows plenty of time for it to work
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I just did brakes last night and broke a caliper bolt right away

+eleventybillion for spraying the caliper bolts right away

if for some reason you DO break a bolt, have no fear. If you can get the other bolt out you can wiggle the caliper off the knuckle and the bolt-out the broken bolt. It's only threaded on the caliper, not the knuckle.

what pads are you using?

 
Using whatever my buddy bought from Napa. This thing is a shuttle for him to get from Falmouth to North Berwick every day, so he's not concerned at ALL with high-grade stuff. He just wants cheap
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shouldnt need a torch, with any luck. ... . just spray the bolts the night before with pb blaster, or some other penetrating oil. that allows plenty of time for it to work
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Yeah hopefully no torch, but I have had to use one before!! even after they were soaked over night. But the torch worked well!!

 
Okay, seriously going to flip out on this car!

Calipers off, no prob (although the torch was good to have.) Rotors off, no problem. Now we're trying to get the wheel studs snug in the hub assembly so that we can put the rotors/wheels back on, and we're having no luck. We can't get the studs pressed straight into the back of the hub, and it's really screwing up the process.

Any advice?

 
Why did you take the wheel studs off? Normally you take the caliper bracket off to remove the rotors

 
Okay, seriously going to flip out on this car!
Calipers off, no prob (although the torch was good to have.) Rotors off, no problem. Now we're trying to get the wheel studs snug in the hub assembly so that we can put the rotors/wheels back on, and we're having no luck. We can't get the studs pressed straight into the back of the hub, and it's really screwing up the process.

Any advice?
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not that this is guaranteed to work, but you could tap the studs in the back of the hub, then try to put the wheel on, put the lug nuts on, and tighten the wheel to the hub pretty hard (don't break the lugs though). That may be enough to force them back into the hub. Pull the wheel back off, check, rinse, repeat.

Also, i don't remember if the threads go to the base of the stud or not on those, but you could always get a nut that matches the thread pitch and size of the stud, and use that to pull the stud through. All assuming the threads go to the base. If they don't, use a few large nuts as spacers and use the lug nut to drive it through. etc...

Definitely no reason to ever remove wheel studs unless one is broken.

 
BRAKE JOB COMPLETE! ~16 hours' worth of learning, swearing, bloody knuckles, and talking about how much easier it would have been if we had a lift in the garage.

Definitely no reason to ever remove wheel studs unless one is broken.
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Yeah, well, we didn't know that - and the asshat at Napa told us to whack the wheel studs out in order to get the rotors off. Only AFTER did we realize that he was full of hooey...and we also realized that we now needed to replace 16/20 wheel studs due to the hammering idea ruining the threads on the end of the studs. D'oh!

If they don't, use a few large nuts as spacers and use the lug nut to drive it through
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They don't on that particular car. There are splines at the end of the studs, and we engineered a washer/bigass nut spacer setup that allowed us to pull the studs into the back of the hub.

I also now know how to dis/re-assemble the parking brake setups, having done it a full three times per side
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Thanks for all the advice, everyone - the PB Blaster/blowtorch combo worked its magic, and the assorted greases, lubes, gels, and whatnot came in handy!

 
That at Napa told us to whack the wheel studs out in order to get the rotors off. Only AFTER did we realize that he was full of hooey...and we also realized that we now needed to replace 16/20 wheel studs due to the hammering idea ruining the threads on the end of the studs. D'oh!
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Napa- FAIL!!! Congrats on gaining valueable experience
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