weird sounds and smoke help!
- Thread starter Zach
- Start date
Tyler
Active member
OEM Denso O2 sensor on Amazon is the cheapest I found. $108.85+ shipping unless you have Amazon Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5YD1A/ref=oh_o03_s00_i01_details
I got this too ... haven't tried it yet though.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648691-Oxygen-Sensor-Offset/dp/B00390BS7C/ref=pd_sim_auto_1
MAF, possibly?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5YD1A/ref=oh_o03_s00_i01_details
I got this too ... haven't tried it yet though.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648691-Oxygen-Sensor-Offset/dp/B00390BS7C/ref=pd_sim_auto_1
MAF, possibly?
GREASEMONKEY
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is it knocking...clunking...color of smoke? id run a leak down and a compression test.... kinda sounds like a bad valve ..... the other simple test, is to kill the spark individually coil to coil....till you find the one that makes no change to the way the engine runs...that will be you problem cylinder...I hope for you that I am wrong and its just a sensor..........not sure where u live but if its close to Gardiner your welcome to swing by my shop....good luck!!!
i-wagon
Well-known member
I just had a front o2 sensor crap out and my car didn't run well at all. Not that bad, but not good.if you have a front o2 code and black smoke she's running rich because the sensor ain't reading right.
Just re-read first post to see smoke was coming from intercooler area. Only obvious thing I can think of in that area that would leak is tranny dipstick, but if you were burning gear oil or atf you would smell it
Just re-read first post to see smoke was coming from intercooler area. Only obvious thing I can think of in that area that would leak is tranny dipstick, but if you were burning gear oil or atf you would smell it
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Zach
New member
Just to make sure the CEL code P0031 is for the front 02 sensor because I was looking at some and there were some for before the cat and after the cat.
Zach
New member
My father replaced the front 02 sensor while I was at work and the CEL went from being solid to now blinking... I did make sure I got the upstream 02 sensor I asked the guy at NAPA a million times just to make sure.
Meyagi
I'm a hack
blinking means a misfire, or not running on all cylinders..... which would also explain the shaking. either a compression problem on one cyl, a bad plug or coil or a bad injector
Zach
New member
I don't know what code its throwing but ill be able to get it checked tomorrow from the dude next to my house.
Is their a test that can be done to tell me exactly which one of the four it is?
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Meyagi
I'm a hack
the cel might give you a misfire on cyl # x so yeah you might be able to pin point it
Zach
New member
I got the car scanned for codes again today and what the guy told me was this.
CEL code history:
Multiple misfires on cyl 1, 2, 3, and 4
o2 sensor ( just replaced that)
Pending CEL codes:
misfire on cyl 2, and 4.
I also noticed that the engine light only blinks in neutral and under 2k rpms. Above 2k rpms the engine light stays soild and does not blink and while giving the car some throttle while in the turbo I can feel it stuttering every now and then. Another thing I noticed when I started my car in the parking lot at work it smelled like a flooded lawn mower but not as strong.
CEL code history:
Multiple misfires on cyl 1, 2, 3, and 4
o2 sensor ( just replaced that)
Pending CEL codes:
misfire on cyl 2, and 4.
I also noticed that the engine light only blinks in neutral and under 2k rpms. Above 2k rpms the engine light stays soild and does not blink and while giving the car some throttle while in the turbo I can feel it stuttering every now and then. Another thing I noticed when I started my car in the parking lot at work it smelled like a flooded lawn mower but not as strong.
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Zach
New member
Iv been looking around and I was wondering if I might need to have the timing belt serviced?
inski
New member
Chris
YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
I suppose it's possible the timing belt has jumped. I'm not sure why it would jump when you've just been driving it around a bit to figure out what's wrong. Maybe a failed tensioner. But if that is the problem, or whatever the problem is. You should probably stop driving it until you get it looked at to figure out exactly what's going wrong.
Something is really wrong, esp. if it's the timing belt. If that goes completely it's going to be a lot more expensive.
CoupedUpSubie
FWD-FTW
NAPA guys don't always know what they are looking at even if you have them double check. In order to get the correct parts find a person that is 100% reliable when you buy a part. I am changing NAPA stores for this very reason.
The misfire on all 4 cylinders would have been when it shutdown probably. Pull the spark plugs on cylinders 2 and 4. I am guessing that after you run the car they will be wet with fuel. Would not surprise me if it came down to a coil pack going.
inski
New member
Lets assume your father installed the o2 correctly and the o2 sensor is fixed. Although I would not hold much faith on Napa parts or 'the Napa guy' the code for it did not return. Now lets think about the things that will cause a misfire on all 4 cylinders. Its unlikely all four plugs or coils failed all at once.
Three things stand out. Fuel feeds all 4 cyls. Air (MAF and turbo) feeds all four cyls. Timing feeds all four cylinders. Check your fuel. Check your air. Check your timing.
Three things stand out. Fuel feeds all 4 cyls. Air (MAF and turbo) feeds all four cyls. Timing feeds all four cylinders. Check your fuel. Check your air. Check your timing.
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Zach
New member
The car is sitting right now till I have some extra money that not for college.
GREASEMONKEY
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ok I suppose I should chime in here... here is what id do...
1st pull timing cover on right hand of engine "easy to do" check timing belt tension.. to check correctly place 22mm socket on crankshaft nut and slightly rock back and forth some times a loose belt will feel tight depending on where your engine sits on its compression stroke..you want to make sure belt is tight before running the motor much.
2nd clear codes and history.. this will give you a base line for further testing..
3rd test drive... slow and steady make note of all you experience... shaking, bogging, check engine lights....
4th scan again.... see what codes you get..this will lead you in a decent direction. "u hope"
the next steps may not be needed but ill list anyway for general testing info
testing for a problematic cylinder with out proper tools= start engine... listen close.... shut off pull the wiring connector to cylinder 1.. restart engine it should run worse...if there is no change to how it runs this is prol the bad one... repeat for each cylinder till you find the one that it makes little to no change it how it runs... focus on that cylinder....I list this because its a easy way to check with limited tools also miss fires and codes don't always instantly come up..
to check coils and plugs can be done also with limited tools= pull coil wire, pull coil pack..replace wire to coil pack and put screwdriver in the coil and within a 1/4 inch of block start motor and inspect the spark if any between screwdriver and block should be a strong looking spark if none or very little coil is prol the issue...if good spark move onto pulling the sparkplug inspect it dose it look oily? burnt? ect? if it looks ok you can check to see it it still works by placing it in the coil pack like the screwdriver and look for spark.
there is not a safe way to check injectors besides listening to them fire "they tick" if no tick check wires and connectors... other tan that you need proper tools
checking valves, rings, ect. you will need tools for this " compression tester.. leak down tester" if you get to this point its prol time to bring it to someone....or study up..
I hope this helps
feel free to hit me up if you live close your welcome to bring it by my shop
1st pull timing cover on right hand of engine "easy to do" check timing belt tension.. to check correctly place 22mm socket on crankshaft nut and slightly rock back and forth some times a loose belt will feel tight depending on where your engine sits on its compression stroke..you want to make sure belt is tight before running the motor much.
2nd clear codes and history.. this will give you a base line for further testing..
3rd test drive... slow and steady make note of all you experience... shaking, bogging, check engine lights....
4th scan again.... see what codes you get..this will lead you in a decent direction. "u hope"
the next steps may not be needed but ill list anyway for general testing info
testing for a problematic cylinder with out proper tools= start engine... listen close.... shut off pull the wiring connector to cylinder 1.. restart engine it should run worse...if there is no change to how it runs this is prol the bad one... repeat for each cylinder till you find the one that it makes little to no change it how it runs... focus on that cylinder....I list this because its a easy way to check with limited tools also miss fires and codes don't always instantly come up..
to check coils and plugs can be done also with limited tools= pull coil wire, pull coil pack..replace wire to coil pack and put screwdriver in the coil and within a 1/4 inch of block start motor and inspect the spark if any between screwdriver and block should be a strong looking spark if none or very little coil is prol the issue...if good spark move onto pulling the sparkplug inspect it dose it look oily? burnt? ect? if it looks ok you can check to see it it still works by placing it in the coil pack like the screwdriver and look for spark.
there is not a safe way to check injectors besides listening to them fire "they tick" if no tick check wires and connectors... other tan that you need proper tools
checking valves, rings, ect. you will need tools for this " compression tester.. leak down tester" if you get to this point its prol time to bring it to someone....or study up..
I hope this helps
feel free to hit me up if you live close your welcome to bring it by my shop