Brake rotor resurfacing .... Is it worth it?

[rallyXcramps]

Looked up repacement rotors, prices vary from 29/ea to 78/ea. I assume you get what you paid for, correct?

The upper grade rotors are Canadian I believe, the lower "Tried to Stop" (True Stop

) are made in China. If money is a big issue get the cheap stuff, and make sure your pads slide into your carriers snuggly, but not to the point you have to hammer them in=bad. If you can do a little more $ get the cheap Rotors and lifetime pads.
Either way new brakes will feel soooooooo much better!.

 

[-=Lobstah=-]

Trying to scrape up some moneu to get brake parts....

Thank you to all volunteers, will inform about the date in near future.

 

[-=Lobstah=-]

Looks like the brake day is coming up

Probably gonna get the parts this week, therefore taking suggestions on brands for rotors and pads. So far i'm leaning towards Brembo rotors (around $40/ea).

Would anyone be willing to "rent" their garage space out for a few hours?

 

[akinaspeedstar]

i don't have a garage but depending on where you are i can probaly give you a hand. after doing the drum to disk conversion on evilaspie's OBS were pretty good at brakes :

 

[rallyxi]

Rowe Auburn has an On car brake laithe

But I would just replace it...personal opinion

;D

 

[-=Lobstah=-]

finally got the money on hand, going to the store today to pick up some parts.

 

[Rightseat]

why the sad face smiley?

you should be happy to get this squared away. while you are there, price replacement rad!

 

[Runnah]

Properly working car = ;D ;D ;D ;D

 

[-=Lobstah=-]

It's happening !!! I'm starting to work on my car tomorrow (Saturday), I have to get it running by Monday, so there's not much time to waste...

Projected works list:

Front brakes (rotors and pads)

Right CV Shaft

Headlight (Bulb)

Plugs, filters and PCV

hopefully nothing else will pop up once i start digging in...

Since I'm kind of pressed on time, and couldn't find a warm spot to do the repairs, i'll be doinng everything in the in-laws driveway (there's no snow on it), with the slight protection from the wind.

If anyone willing to give me a hand and isn't afraid of cold, i can pay back in beers of choice and lunch.

that's it, long day tomorrow

PS: What do i need for tools to pull the CV shaft and is there any tricks to it?

 

[-=Lobstah=-]

Burr it's cold out there

 

[-=Lobstah=-]

Day 1

Took the wheel assmbly apart, got the CV shaft out.

Going to put the new one in tomorrow.

snapped the caliper housing bolt though

Anyone has any idea how i can take it out? so far i'm thinking about drilling it right out

 

[-=Lobstah=-]

Day 2. F**in hey...

Could not get the snapped bolt out whatsoever.

Took the left caliper off and found out that the thing was fried, i mean stuck in one position. Gonna have to replace the whole caliper.

Another long day tomorrow

This sucks

 

[Shorty]

They usually come out pretty easy once the caliper is outa the way. Ok, relatively easy

 

[-=Lobstah=-]

They usually come out pretty easy once the caliper is outa the way. Ok, relatively easy

Everything is easy, when you have the right tools

I'm running a ghetto workshop here, so i'm limited to a hammer and a flat head screwdriver. PS: took out the CV shaft spring pin with a system of a screwdriver, 1 1/4 steel tube and 8 lb. splitting mall

PPS: I'll be over at Evergreen tomorrow morning for some parts and advice, what me to bring some coffee ;D

PPPS: That coolant conditioner seems to be working, i'm watching the level closely, it doesn't seem to be leaking as much

 

[Shorty]

that's good about the conditioner, it was worth a try. Is there any stub still sicking out after the calipers is out of the way? The bolt likes to seize in the caliper bracket and just the head snaps off. Once the other bolt is outa the way, you can usually swing the caliper enough to get it off the bolt stub. PB'laster and heat it with a propane torch. (acetylene is good but propane will work too) Vice grips and twist it out. Just don't breathe the fumes

. If its busted off flush, I'd pull the 3 nuts off the top of the strut and bring the whole mess inside where you can drill it out nice and accurately.

 

[redlinerally]

drill w/small small bit, careful not to damage housing in process... then, use a bolt tap to back it out. be prepared to break a few bits tho. oh, and soak with PB beforehand

 

[-=Lobstah=-]

Well, i used up my can of PB in 2 days, gotta get a new one

I drilled through the bolt, but, hmmm, a little off center

Tried to push it, turn it, kick it out with a good amount of wizz piss, no luck. PS: I snapped the head off it back when the caliper support and caliper itself were together, so i had to use a thin hack saw blade to separate the two.

Also when i took the caliper off the other side, i noticed one one of the bolts an excessive amount of either thread locker of jb weld (gray color) which pretty much filled the threads and glued the bolt inside the housing (had to use 4 ft steel pipe to lever the wrench)

The left brake piston was stuck for unknown amount of time so the pad was grounded to nothing. The piston looks like its pretty dead.

Long day ahead tomorrow

Sucks

 

[Rightseat]

remove caliper frame from car

clamp frame in vise

torch the sheet out of bolt stub until cherry red

grap hot stud with vice grips, it'll back right out.

BTDT, I know for a fact this works

 

[-=Lobstah=-]

There's no stub

I snapped inside 1/2 inch hole with 1/32-1/16" inside the hole. But i will try to heat it and maybe pound it out of the hole.

 

[Rightseat]

take the old part with you to Norm's in Newcastle, they'll have a used one

MUCH easier and less time consuming than trying to save to one you have