You ain't kidding! I could only get -1.3 degrees of camber in the front, but my toe went to something like -.81. I set it back to -.06. It doesn't want to go straight, but man does it want to turn! I set it to -2.5 in the rear. Now I just gotta figure out tire pressures...
How much camber is too much?
- Thread starter Shorty
- Start date
I think the real key is the ratio of camber from front to back. Going with very little in the back helps the car rotate a bit easier, yet maintain straight line acceleration.
I'm running sti struts with sti springs. Stock sways.
Tried the setup with 3 different tires and was happy. The old style azeni (rt215), hankook rs2's and Bfg R1's.
The tire that seemed to improve the most was the hankook with that setup, but there may have been other factors.
I'm running sti struts with sti springs. Stock sways.
Tried the setup with 3 different tires and was happy. The old style azeni (rt215), hankook rs2's and Bfg R1's.
The tire that seemed to improve the most was the hankook with that setup, but there may have been other factors.
EvilAsPie
New member
When you say rotate do you mean turning or the car actually rotating itself, meaning sliding/drifting/oversteer/etc? Wouldn't that be counterproductive to autox?
You really don't want a ton of negative camber in the back. Depends on the discipline though. If you do more track events, you will want a little more negative camber compared to autox. In general you want more negative up front.
somewhat tire dependant, but I think the ideal for autox is about -2.5 to -3.5 up front and -.75 to -1.5 in the back.
Track setup would change my opinion to -1 to -1.75.
I go with with zero toe to preserve tires. If money were no object, or my car was a trailer queen, then I'd run a slightly different toe setting.
Course this is just my personal opinion based on how I like my cars to run.
somewhat tire dependant, but I think the ideal for autox is about -2.5 to -3.5 up front and -.75 to -1.5 in the back.
Track setup would change my opinion to -1 to -1.75.
I go with with zero toe to preserve tires. If money were no object, or my car was a trailer queen, then I'd run a slightly different toe setting.
Course this is just my personal opinion based on how I like my cars to run.
ruggedman
New member
If you want sweet drifto action get rcomps and mess with the pressures.
johnny6speed
New member
STX/STU Subaru Boost Buggie Competitors are running as much as -5F and -3R with much different suspension setups compaired to CMC/NER/SCCNH/SCCV folks.
From what I've read, the less camber you have in the rear the more the car will "snap" oversteer on your machines.
From what I've read, the less camber you have in the rear the more the car will "snap" oversteer on your machines.
EvilAsPie
New member
Some very helpful info coming from the honda racer.
Thanks Jon, keeping to car from "rotating" or oversteering seams like a much better idea for the sport.
Thanks Jon, keeping to car from "rotating" or oversteering seams like a much better idea for the sport.
EvilAsPie
New member
I know i'm not johnny but,
My fastest run at Evercross had little to no tire squeal. If your tires are sliding front or back (understeer or oversteer) you're not going faster!
At least that's how i understand it.
My fastest run at Evercross had little to no tire squeal. If your tires are sliding front or back (understeer or oversteer) you're not going faster!
At least that's how i understand it.
Redline
Member
It was funny actually. I was in the pass. seat, you leaned in throught he window and as a closing comment said "Watch for the rotation". Sam looked at me and said "what?". I repeated what you said, not 100% sure what it meant. We both shrugged and said "I dunno." She then proceeds to whip the car 180* around. That's when I said "Ah... the rotation!" and she was laughing and apoligizing... it was quite funny really.
EvilAsPie
New member
That slalom was the perfect example of "snap" oversteer for many people that day.
akinaspeedstar
New member
oh trust me theh melter rotates. but that's more of a power slide then a lift oversteer. it has enough power to change it's cornering attack angle with the right foot instead of the wheel.
i know my car is a little tail happy with the rsb set at 24mils. while tend to drive as trainable put it, " very pissed off" i don't mind some tail slide, but generally its not faster, side ways is not forward. that said with better tires next season im going to be doing some HEAVY looking into alignment settings for next year, i'll let you know what i find
i know my car is a little tail happy with the rsb set at 24mils. while tend to drive as trainable put it, " very pissed off" i don't mind some tail slide, but generally its not faster, side ways is not forward. that said with better tires next season im going to be doing some HEAVY looking into alignment settings for next year, i'll let you know what i find
johnny6speed
New member
Joel, the best way I can explain it is for you to take a ride with me in it. It slides in the rear atleast 1/3 of the run, I correct it quickly with neutral steering and quick blips of the throttle.
I was quite impressed with your wagon when I snagged it for my chair run @ Awesomecross. The rear was snap oversteering through the slalom, it was controlable with lots of throttle application to correct. Throttle seemed to induce understeer. So I could whip it then get back on the gas to get it back. But I know it has changed a bit since then.
As far as rotating goes Im a big fan. And I setup my cars with outrageous oversteer in mind, dialing it back towards neutral till the point where I can control it within reason. That usually = Fast. Especially in FWD and maybe even AWD boost buggies.
So since you Scoobs have MacStrut front suspensions and the way the geometry is setup, you need HUGE front bars to aid in camber loss. So your -3.4 camber in the front is good. So now you have a huge bar in the front and maybe a smaller one in the rear. Unless you dial in a ton of toe out in the rear your car will plow. So to fix it you need much higher spring rates in the rear or a HUGE rear bar. Or ideally both.